Readers questions

Write hear Your questions, pls. – Ide írjatok kérdéseket
In short form, and in the first line the body or the lens name.
Röviden, és az első sorban a váz vagy az optika névét feltüntetve.

349 Responses to Readers questions

  1. Ryan says:

    I am working on a 60d, it will not communicate with any lens. I tried replacing the lens contacts on the camera, no change. The camera will work correctly with no lens, but if you put any lens on it you get and error 01, so it knows the lens is there to some extent, but does not see aperture or know the status of the af/mf switch. Any thoughts? I looked around for fuses on the mainboard, power board and bottom board, but i didn’t see any.

    • canonrepair says:

      i would say th top dc-dc board. you can check if the supply goes on the lens aperture, when the lens is conncted. for some reasons by this camera is very sensitive, i think is underdimensioned. replace it from a donor, but if you have some 60d customers, you can buy the dc board on stock too. will be used anyway 🙂

  2. igor says:

    it’s mean its done? those are difficult… how can I fix iy?

    • canonrepair says:

      at first, you should be sure, that this is the problem. the only method is to get an another GOOD mainboard, to build it in, and to test. Case it is ok , you have to find somebody who has an SPT software for the 70d, and to program it based on the old mainboards data, or to build the new dataset.
      Case not solving your problem, you have to replace one-by-one the others too.

  3. igor says:

    where should I look for it? which part of motherboard? somewhere around lens contacts connector? thanks

  4. Igor says:

    hi, I have problem with my 70D … sometimes (one, two times per month) when battery went flat and camera turn it self of ….I instal a fully charged battery but camera no showing f-stop number and after pressing shutter button gave me a error: comumication between lens and camera….
    basicity I cant control aperture of lens and focus on some of the lenses. what I notice : when its in error mode -and I turn camera off the SDcard LED fleshes every two second.
    interesting is: its sporadic and its gone sometimes after few reinstalling batterys and lens and sometimes after days of sadness ….
    I not using a battery grip, all batteries original, I did firmware installation when camera is normal and with error. (firm 1.1.2) . and its doing with all my canon lenses(24mm f2,8 / 50mm f1.8/ 18-135mm/10-22)

    Thank You

  5. Nagy Roland says:

    Tisztelt János!

    Először is: bocsánat, hogy két hozzászólásban küldöm el a kérdéseimet, de amikor egybe küldtem, szerintem valami baj volt vele.
    Tehát van két problémám, és a tanácsát szeretném kérni.
    1.: nemrég vettem egy Canon 17-85 objektívet, használtan. Amikor megérkezett, csak kipróbáltam egyik este, az autofókusz néhol nehézkes volt, de azt hittem, hogy csak túl sötét van a 350D vázammal használva. Most azonban kültéren használtam volna, napsütésben, és nem nagyon akart fókuszálni AF módban. Minél nagyobb a gyújtótáv, annál rosszabb a helyzet. Szóval 17mm-en kb. mindig fókuszál, felette egyre kevésbé, sőt sehogy. Másik vázon is próbáltam (600D), de ugyanez a helyzet. Hibakód nincs, nem kerreg furán, manuálisan be tudom állítani a fókuszt, de AF-ban nem megy. A blogján olvasottak alapján, mivel nincs hibakód, ezért talán nem a flex kábel lesz a ludas, esetleg az USM motor optical encoder-je koszos, hibás? Ön mit gondol? Vagy cserélnem kellene az egész USM motort?

    • canonrepair says:

      “esetleg az USM motor optical encoder-je koszos, hibás?” esetleg az
      ” Ön mit gondol? Vagy cserélnem kellene az egész USM motort?” cserélni semmiképpen. azt bármikor lehet. előbb meg kell próbálni megjavítani

      • Nagy Roland says:

        Rendben megnézem, köszönöm!

      • Nagy Roland says:

        Sikerült megtisztítani az optikal encoder-t, és megoldódott a fókuszálási problémám. Köszönöm!

        A második kérdésemet nem sikerült eddig feltennem (valamiért nem küldte el a hozzászólásomat a rendszer), most hátha. Hozzám került egy T4i váz (itthon 650D), nem kapcsol be szimptómával. Amikor megnéztem, kiderült, hogy ez nem igaz, csak az LCD kijelzőn nincs kép, a keresőben látható, hogy a váz működik. Elsütésnél a tükör felcsapódott, de kép nem készült. Az USB portja sem élt, de a HDMI kimenet igen. Gondoltam, hogy vagy alaplap hiba, vagy firmware gond, így elindítottam egy firmware update-t, azonban a legelején elment a HDMI kép. Vártam pár percet, kikapcsoltam, akksi ki, majd vissza. Azóta ennyit csinál, csak villog, bekapcsolás nélkül is, az akksi berakása után:
        https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1OD1mSflp5oc2txRHpZYXA5NWM/view?usp=sharing
        Ön szerint ez mire utal? Meg lehet javítani, vagy alaplap csere szükséges?

      • canonrepair says:

        én inkább a dc-modul hibájára gondolnék. szét kell szedni, ha beázott, akkor azonnal látható

  6. huseyn aliyev says:

    hi. i live in godollo and i have a canon 60d which have a display flip problem(rotate) i want to bring it to you but before it i want to contact with you . please leave your email . thank you!

  7. Kovács Gábor says:

    Érdeklődnék, hogy javít e blendehibát?

  8. bertus11 says:

    Hello János,
    I have a problem with a Canon 60D camera, that I already had before.
    When starting up the camera I get a message that the camera cannot recognize the battery.
    I mounted the mainboard of this camera in another good working camera and here this board did not give the error message.
    So I think the problem is not related to the mainboard, but with something else.
    Do you have an idea what can couse this error message?

    Regards,
    Bert

    • canonrepair says:

      check check data contact of the battery. is it for SURE original battery?
      60d is anyway a damned camera. I hate them.

      • bertus11 says:

        Yes I checked with 2 original batteries, same result. I already had checked the contact, but this looked ok and I also checked the screw that connects to a pcb.

      • bertus11 says:

        Finally I found the problem. There is a flex connector between the bottom board and the main board. A few of the contacts of this flex had some corrosion. I replaced the flex connector and the battery is recognised again and shows remaining power.

  9. Success! The problem with EF 300 2.8L IS (focus hunting, no encoder signal) was bad connection at aperture unit flex cable. Who would know.. now autofocus is working like a charm! 🙂

  10. Filip Lolic says:

    After few hundred lenses that passed through my hands, I remember only two cases that main PCB was broken. In both cases problem was in one of the ferrite inductors in USM driver circuitry that went open circuit.

  11. Toni Hallikas says:

    Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM AF issue

    There was AF failure, which first seemed like optical encoder failure: focus hunting back and forward two times and then stops, never locking to any subjects. I have repaired some USM lenses having identical problem and which is mostly caused by dirty or scratched plastic encoder ring. But not this time, this lens has now brand new USM unit, including encoder system. Still hunting. Could it be bad main PCB? I measured voltages from encoder (IR transmitter and receiver) and there indeed was some voltages present when pressing AF ON button. Then i used my oscilloscope to see any pulses from receiver side but there was no pulses when turning the ring. Any good ideas? -Regards, Toni

    • canonrepair says:

      are you 100% sure, that this USM is the right version for your lens?
      I know for ex that there are some micro USM motors for the 50 mm f1,4, where you have to change sometimes the board too.

      secondly: do you have the USM for a 100% official source? last time I ordered a cmos for a G9 camera from a chinese company (sold as used bur checked). NOT working. I wrote a letter – they have sent back the money immediately.

      • Toni Hallikas says:

        It should be exactly the same unit, brand new original Canon part (not ordered from China). Anyway, this new unit did not fix the hunting problem, now I’m thinking about buying new main board (costs 120euros). :/ EF 50 1.4 USM has some trimmers on PCB, which affects the usm motor (drive frequency maybe?). Once I ordered chinese replacement (new) micro-usm, but it had broken flex cable. Sometimes those usm’s are a bit tricky. I got EF 400 2.8L USM (non-IS) for very low price, 250eur. No autofocusing at all. I spent many nights while trying to figure out what’s the problem and finally noticed that it was USM stator itself. There was really tiny crack on conductive paint, backside of the stator near flex cable. I used silver conductive paint to fix it, and it did the job! It works now like a new lens.

      • canonrepair says:

        on the PCB there shoud be a potenciometer to adjust the signals frequency, but for you more important the PWM ratio – which should be 50%, and also has a potenciometer
        But this is for the driving of the USM, not for the feedback.
        Focus hunting normally means no feedback from the moving part – this case the USM gets the signal, and after a time limit will stop working.

  12. canonrepair says:

    as an intensive grease cleaner use BRAKE CLEANER, 500ml spay can is ca 5 EUR… just test it before, as there are many different types.

    • bertus11 says:

      For cleaning I use a spray from AF, called Isoclene(ISO250), Isopropanol(99,7%) cleaning fluid(250ml). I also used it for cleaning a camera sensor(outside the camera). Spray it on the sensor and blow it clean with Sprayduster SDU400D from the same mark AF. The sprayduster is perfect for all cleaning and leaves no residues. You can find it on the internet.

  13. Filip Lolic says:

    From my experience, and I have tried many different greases, so far the best one for use in modern lenses (plastic-plastic or plastic-metal contact) is Polyolefin (PAO) grease Molykote EM-30L. It is available in small packages on ebay. Smallest 1 ounce (28 grams) package is all that you need, and will last forever for use on lenses.

  14. Lukas says:

    Hello! At first, thank’s for the valuable information on camera repairs!

    I have a question about lens repair – what kind of lubricant You suggest to use on helical parts for canon USM lens?

    Background: While I am waiting for replacement flex cable for my 16-35 2.8 mk1, I thought I could lubricate the moving parts as the lens is fairly old and zooming feels “dry”. And maybe any tips for disassembling usm motor? I am replacing the flex cable that goes inside the usm motor and tells lens chip at what point focusing gear is, which means I have to disassemble USM to deepest parts and I am now wondering if the lens will need any fine adjustments after reasembly?

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi Lukas,
      for the electronic lenses I use a white PTFE-silicon grease. It’s important to be stabile in time too.
      By the diasassembling the USM: just be careful to mark the position of the flex regarding to it’s body.
      Before disassembly you have to unscrew the comb type (absolute) position sensor. and of course be careful not to damage the optical incremental sensor. cleaning with white spirit (we have in hungary a special liquid usd in medicine, or, much easyier for you: brake cleaning fluid from the automotive industry. but check at first not to damage the plastic parts.

      • Lukas says:

        Thank You! For cleaning I have isopropyl alcohol (in Latvia, where I live it is called tehnical spirit).

      • Lukas says:

        Hi! Everything went well with replacement of cable and lens is working ok now. The comb type sensor really was the biggest pain in the a** 🙂 But now I have a problem – the top metal ring with wave spring that fixes the USM is now a little loose. It moves few mm in both directions freely, but not that far to come off. Can’t understand if I need to glue it back as it was before or it is not neccesary. Anyway – what kind of glue should I use if I decide to take it apart someday?

      • canonrepair says:

        “I have a problem – the top metal ring with wave spring that fixes the USM is now a little loose. It moves few mm in both directions freely, but not that far to come off. Can’t understand if I need to glue it back as it was before or it is not neccesary. Anyway – what kind of glue should I use if I decide to take it apart someday?”
        That ring has 3 small protrusions towards the inside, which move under a collar. The ring HAS to come off by rotating to the end of that channel. And to fix you will have to rotate in the opposite direction, and to glue it for ex with nail polish in 3 points (three portions of 2 cm length.)

      • Filip Lolic says:

        May I add that with that ring you regulate pressure between USM motor components. The safest bet is to return ring to its factory position (because of that I always mark all parts before disassembling), but you can increase or reduce pressure if needed.
        I always secure that ring with Pattex Total glue, three small dots spaced 120 degrees apart. That glue remains flexible and is strong enough, but can be very easily removed if needed.

  15. bertus11 says:

    Hello János, I have a Canon 17-55mm with error-1. I replaced the flex cable and the lens is working ok now, but I have a little bit of front focus. I’m not shure if it was already present before repare, but can this be caused by the repair? Do you know how to correct this front focus?

    • canonrepair says:

      during cable replacement there is only one possibility to change the focusing: if you put back the comb-type sensor in an other position (you have there a little possiblility to play with it. This information is used for the focus correction.
      But I never had this problem, so I think that your system was so before too.

  16. Raahid Kulangarathoppe says:

    Hi I have a problem with my Canon 700 d is not working display but no problem with lcd, problem with mainboard, can I identify the display I C ? Can you show by image?

    Thank you

  17. Jonathan says:

    I recently purchased the Canon 400mm 5.6 lens refurbished from CanonUSA. The initial photos I took looked over sharpened. I was expecting at least the same performance I have been getting with my 300mmF4. Its not even close.. The photos were of a football game with the sun behind me. Nice warm late afternoon light..@ RAW 200 ISO 1250 sec F5.6 with highlight tone priority. Standard picture style – sharpness set at 7 with other values at normal setting. . At first I thought perhaps I over sharpened in camera. So I edited with my canon digital photo software bundled with my canon 6d. I manipulated the sharpness which did not clean up the images. Still looked over sharpened? After looking closer..it might be Chromatic Aberrations? At 100 percent can see subtle outlines of it? My camera body is set for chromatic aberrations/peripheral illumination correction. Wonder what could this be? Next week before I send it to the factory I’m going to do test shots using my 300mm and 400mm to ensure somehow perhaps my perceptions not distorted. But I’m about 99% sure something is not quite right with the lens.

  18. hiphopast says:

    How canon remap sensor as i Have body with one red dot and another body with white dot. I presume that they are dead/stuck pixel and they need to be remapped. I try with manual sensor cleaning and no luck. They still visible on live view and video. However on picture mode is fine. When you bump up Time to 1/5000 or faster pixels despair as well.
    So what software they use or how it is possible to fix problem.

    • canonrepair says:

      canon uses of course the service software. with the SPT software, which I use it is not possible.
      by the way: which camera?

      • hiphopast says:

        Or sorry I have two cameras both 5D MKII and both suffer for this same illness. One have white and other red. The second camera have only 6mc and shutter count at 7K but have been opened so no warranty.

  19. igor david says:

    hi again, camera is dead now! I was tried spray brake cleaner and I was blow all board with air… and after assembly together it won’t turn on!
    I think is time for new board….

  20. canonrepair says:

    fuses normally have on to a capital letter, like “K” or “M” etc. anyway, I dont think, that a 70d should have a fuse on the main board.
    try to press slightly the big BGA chips wih your finger. or you can try some cooling spray too – case is a contact problem, will temporary help. to make diagnostics

  21. igor says:

    update… I was find on opposite side of board in area where is connector for display small component with little glass on top and with two contacts (I measured it and is dead – no continuity or resistance) …. maybe display fuse? thanks

  22. Igor says:

    hi, I have a canon70D all working except back screen… even touch working because I can relate the shutter with touch but nothing shown on screen is black all the time.. I replaced all back screen but still the same problem… can be same problem like with that 500d (bag video chip) ? all problem started before month when screen sometimes just turn off by self just touch was working…. Im soo unhappy because is great camera… and I using it for video recording…. thanks

    • canonrepair says:

      hi Igor,
      there can be a lot of causes, but yes, a bad soldering could be the reason.
      The problem is, that you use this camera for video recording. During that, the cmos gets a high emperature – and so does the processor too.

  23. Vladimir says:

    Hi Janos,
    It is a great blog you set up here 🙂
    Could you give me some hint about Canon 70-300 DO?
    I bought it used with oily aperture, actually that didn’t bother me, since I’m shooting wide open, and it was cheap. The pictures are overexposed in f/8 and smaller. Also my 500D didn’t show any error. I was thinking some day to replace the aperture (I don’t believe it is meaningful to try only to clean it), but there is something that bothers me – I did some tests with exposure, and it seems that overexposure is same for a set of aperture sizes. Here are the results:
    @70mm : (4.5,5,5.6,6.3) -ok, (7.1,8,9,10) +1ev,(11,13,14) +2ev,(16,18,20,22) +3ev,(25,29,32) +4ev
    @300mm : (5.6,6.3,7.1,8,9,10) – ok, (11,13) +1ev, (14,16,18,20) +2ev,(22,25)+3ev,(29,32,36,39) +4ev.
    If I set it manually @ -1ev, the picture is OK @ f/10. It is clearly visible that for example @f/10 the aperture is more closed than @f/11. Does this happens only if EMD is faulty, or it might be a problem with PCB?
    Another question – I found parts list, and EMD is “YG2-2098-000”, is it the same as “YG2-2098-009”? I could find only the second part as spare.

    Any hints about this lens will be highly appreciated 🙂
    Best,

  24. Szabolcs Mate says:

    Excellent resource, thanks!
    Fellow Hungarian here, but I’m writing in English for your global audience!
    Typical abused 50D from ebay, advertised as 9k expo. Won it for £170, but had some bad undisclosed, mostly cosmetic issues and 39k actual expo, so got a 50% refund. Good enough for that sort of money!
    Problems I had:
    1 – The focusing screen was off. Manual focusing (eye corrected) was consistently off, while AF and Live view focusing was both always spot on. Removed the shim (spacer) from above the focusing screen, and now it is almost perfect. Better than my eyes anyway in everyday use. In ideal, artificial circumstances (excellent light and contrast) one can tell it could do with a very thin spacer though to get it just right. What is the best way to make one? What would you use? Piece of paper? Plastic film? Sticky tape on the focusing screen? Also, cutting out the original odd shape, or something simpler like just the outline of the screen? Also I wonder how this could be the case, Sensor (live view and shots) and AF sensor perfectly aligned (I mean within my means of testing), but focusing screen with (i guess) original spacer out of alignment? I removed and reinserted several times to make sure it was sitting where it should be.
    2 – Usual flash mount int/ext sensor switch problem. I just removed the stuck plunger for now and use the internal flash for AF assist, and the PC socket to radio trigger external manual flashes.
    3 – I had something rattling inside, and was stupid enough to play around with it while not only the battery was in the camera, but it was turned on! (facepalm) The inevitable happened. The distinct sound and smell of electronic discharge, and one again when quickly turned over to remove the battery! Too late. Damage report: two AF illumination LEDs gone. Lucky me, nothing more serious, but still: how stupid!?! Culprit: a lose screw inside. I think it discharged the flash capacitor through AF illumination LEDs. I still don’t know today where that screw came from! Spent minutes with the camera taken apart! Any usual suspects to check?
    As for the repair, am I right thinking I can just replace the LED unit or that top assembly on top of the prism? If so, what donors can I use? Quite a few cameras used the same 9 point AF arrangement, but I am sure in some the flexy PCB cables and connectors are different. On photos the 40d unit looked identical, but they used 9 point AF since the 20d, and in some later entry level models (500d?) if I remember correctly? I can solder if required, but would be nice to get away without! Depends on donor price of course.

    Unrelated: Sigma 28-70/2.8 EX (non DG), aperture sticks, “electronically”. Sometimes works well, but more often it stops down on 1st shot or DOF check, but would not open fully. Next shot (darker expo) closes further, and opens a bit again but even less than before, all the way until fully stopped down. Removing and reinstalling the lens normally resets the aperture to full 2.8. Took it apart, there seems to be no mechanical issue. There is an end switch to sense the 2.8 position (open at 2.8, closed anywhere else) and the mechanism is driven by a stepper motor, so I think it is open loop control apart from fully open 2.8. I tried to clear and adjust the switch (as thought the lens might think it opened the aperture when it didn’t), but no success whatsoever. Checked continuity, always worked as I’d think it should when taken apart. Any other clues? Am I missing something?

    Thanks in advance, and keep up the good work! 🙂

    Szabolcs

    • canonrepair says:

      1 i would use original shims, as i have them in the box 😊 if not, then some stickers, only on the sides.
      3 EACH used camera has to be disassemled and checked. They need to be cleaned anyway, and the loose screws can always appear.
      i would check the 40d af led–

      aperture control is ALWAYS open loop, older lenses with a mechanical switch, neewer with optocoupler. but can be a problem with the flex cable.

  25. Vladimir V says:

    Hi, I tried to write you, but it gave me error 😦
    Could you give me some hint about Canon 70-300 DO?
    I bought it used with oily aperture, actually that didn’t bother me, since I’m shooting wide open, and it was cheap. The pictures are overexposed in f/8 and smaller. Also my 500D didn’t show any error. I was thinking some day to replace the aperture (I don’t believe it is meaningful to try only to clean it), but there is something that bothers me – I did some tests with exposure, and it seems that overexposure is same for a set of aperture sizes. Here are the results:
    @70mm : (4.5,5,5.6,6.3) -ok, (7.1,8,9,10) +1ev,(11,13,14) +2ev,(16,18,20,22) +3ev,(25,29,32) +4ev
    @300mm : (5.6,6.3,7.1,8,9,10) – ok, (11,13) +1ev, (14,16,18,20) +2ev,(22,25)+3ev,(29,32,36,39) +4ev.
    If I set it manually @ -1ev, the picture is OK @ f/10. It is clearly visible that for example @f/10 the aperture is more closed than @f/11. Does this happens only if EMD is faulty, or it might be a problem with PCB?
    Another question – I found parts list, and EMD is “YG2-2098-000”, is it the same as “YG2-2098-009”? I could find only the second part as spare.
    Any hints will be highly appreciated 🙂

  26. bertus11 says:

    Hello Janos,
    I think I will keep the 5DmkII for myself, so there is no hurry in solving the problem,but perhaps it is a good idea to let you read out the error codes. What program do you use at the moment? Deamon Tools is no longer available. What would be the cost for replacing the mainboard or replacing the Cmos sensor?
    Regards,
    Bert

    • canonrepair says:

      Daemon tools is OFFICIALLY not available – but I have a backup copy :). So with the SPT running on my PC we can read them out. The error-reading will be for You – but ONLY for You – for free.
      Case I have to replace a mainboard, the question is, if I can retrive the data from the old one, or not. If yes, then theoretically is not so difficult, the labour wold be 100 EUR. If not, that means a lot of work because the AF sensors. That would be 150 EUR. A used mainboard on the ebay is approx 200 USD (but I would NEVER buy from that source), a new one is about 400 USD from the USA.
      The CMOS needs anyway to be adjusted to the body, so that would be the labour 150 EUR.
      J

  27. bertus11 says:

    Hello Janos,
    I haven’t reacted for some time, but I am still reading your blog.
    I have a stange problem with a 5D mkII. I already have the camera for several weeks,
    but the problem to me occurred only once, so it is difficult to investigate.
    Suddenly when taking pictures, the pictures where pink with a strange pattern in the
    upper part of the picture. I googled for this problem and found that several people had
    this problem and those who had send the camera in to Canon got a heavy bill for changing the motherboard.
    Did you ever see this problem?
    Changing the mainboard is quite an expensive solution for a problem that occurs incidently.

    You can find a picture here:
    https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvYEOBq8Mh_FgSvobS2DM-uihYKG

    Regards and greetings from The Netherlands,
    Bert

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi Bert, I think this could be a cmos OR a mainboard problem too. I have here a used cmos (unfortunatelly with a laser damage), and a mainboard too. So case you decide to let the vcamera repaired, I could do it for You. I also have the SPT software for the 5dMk2. There is a possibliity to read out the error codes from the camera through the internet. Internal error codes could tell more of course.
      Case the problem comes back more often with the time, could be for ex a BGA chip soldering problem.

  28. Christian says:

    40D

    Hi,
    My 40D is not working. The symptoms are: clicking sound about three times when switching on, Err99 appears.
    I’ve removed the lens and the front body cover (around the bajonett) and saw the mirror got stuck. The clicking came from the right motor (the mirror motor), it turns about a 3/4 turn and stops without pressing the shutter, just by switching on.
    Do you know this problem? Is the mirror hinge or the main mirror driving motor broken?
    What shoud I do?
    Look at this picture from the mirror-shutter system for overview:

    Regards from Austria
    Christian

    • canonrepair says:

      could be a mecahnical damage, a loose screw stucked somewhere, or a damaged phase sensor (which gives the position of the mirrror mechanism)

      • Filip says:

        Also it is possible that LV8013 motor driver on the bottom PCB is damaged (half dead).

  29. Thank you for this interesting blog!
    Ok, I have few questions for you. I have been repairing eos lenses and bodies several years now, but there is always something weird problems that I cannot solve.

    Here is the one:
    I have now two lenses, EF 24-105 4L and EF 100 2.8L IS USM (dropped). I got that EF 24-105 because it had broken aperture flex cable. I replaced it, but it still does not work: IS unit is making tickling noise when lens is attached to a body, and aperture value on upper LCD screen is flashing beetween f00 and f4.0 or so.
    I unplugged IS unit and aperture unit from main PCB, but it still keeps flashing aperture value when turned on.
    EF 100 2.8L IS has same problem. Previous owner had dropped it and said it wont focus anymore. Well, I plugged it to my body and immediately IS unit started keeping noise.. it sounds like it is trying to reset itself repeatedly. And at same time, again aperture value on upper LCD is blinking.
    So is it actually bad IS unit causing these
    phenomenons? Or in worst case, bad main PCB? 😦

    Best Regards,
    Toni Hallikas

  30. Bojan says:

    Yes, without proper schematic diagram, that is all that I can do at the moment.. Thanks 🙂
    Bojan

  31. Bojan says:

    Hi ,
    I have 400D with error99 problem. Already replaced faulty FET on Power board (it seems there was a short caused by detached pin from CF card connector that was wandering inside and that FET was dead when I obtained the camera from ebay)
    Symptoms at the moment:
    On pressing shutter button, it seems something is trying to move (motor?).. but there is no autofocus (no movement in lens), so I think the power to lens may be missing.
    Without lens, pressing shutter buttom al the way generates error99.
    I really need a wiring schematic diagram… does anybody have it? The information in manual downloadable from ElectroTanya is not sufficient..
    Thank you in advance!
    Bojan

    • canonrepair says:

      unfortunaltelly on the DC board die not only FETs but the IC too.
      At first I would search for a donor, and would try to find out through changing modules.

  32. Dorian Hargarten says:

    Hey! Thank you for your great blog! My question is: I have a Canon Eos 60D with around 117K shutter actuations according to Magic Lantern. So far, the camera works like a charm, but as I recently picked up timelapse photography, my shutter count has jumped quickly. I am wondering whether I should continue using this camera, or get a used Eos M Body to do timelapse with. I looked inside the lens bajonet of my 60D to see if there is some wear visible, but I can’t see anything. Are there any visible indicators of wear before a shutter dies? If the shutter dies, how expensive would the replacement be?

    • canonrepair says:

      there are no sign of a weared shutter. I have seen even 40d shutter with 225000 (!) actuations, and 40d with dead shutter after 8000 exposures.
      to see the shutter price go to the http://www.procamerarepair.com (USA). I normally change a shutter (only the labour) for approx 60-80 EUR, depending on the camera type.

  33. Kenji says:

    Hello Ruzsa,
    my Canon 5d Mark II has problems with the buttons on the back side.
    Only the small joystick and the display is working. All other buttons and the on/off switch don’t work.
    Thanks.

  34. Poppy says:

    Hi, you have a very nice blog with excellent write-up here.
    I have a Canon 24 70mm f2.8 USM L lens. AF was okay but manual focus slip. I followed some online tutorials and attempted to repair. I rotated the silver retaining ring (face cam) to tighten it up a bit and manual focus is back to normal. However, AF is not behaving well. It became choppy and will not be able to focus sometimes. I opened up the lenses several times to adjust the tension but it just won’t work properly. The silver ring seems stuck and the USM rings and motor can’t be removed for cleaning. Have you had any experience repairing USM assembly ? I need your advice please.

    I followed these guides :
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EN5QvuyZDaA ( to open up to the USM part)
    http://www.instructables.com/id/RepairAdjustClean-Canon-17-55mm-f28-Dropped-/?ALLSTEPS (step 10 and 11 for USM adjustment)
    http://photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00QHjI (removing rings – but mine get stuck and can’t be removed)

    Hoping to hear from you soon.

  35. Dmitriy says:

    The dial on the back of my 6D is stuck – it is very difficult to turn. How can this be repaired? I am located in Budapest. Thanks!

  36. Jordan says:

    Hi,
    I got a 5D mk1 that is not booting and I’m trying to fix it. I replaced the LPU board as it was damaged, but still nothing when I switch the 5D ON (no LCD, no top screen, no effect when I press any button). I checked the power provided by the DC/DC board, 5D OFF I have VCH, V1.2, VO (VTFT, V2.5, CVBAT at 0v), 5D ON I have VCH, V1.2, v2.5, VO (VTFT, CVBAT at 0v). I expect one of the power to be down as I have maybe something dead on the board. Is it what we expect ? Are these 2 missing power mandatory to have the 5D lighting at least the top screen ?
    Do you know what is the boot sequence, who is driving what to powerup the device?
    Thanks in advance.

    • canonrepair says:

      hi,i cannot check this right now, but try to measure the fuse on the upper dc board, and the fuses on the other one lateral.

      • Jordan says:

        By “upper dc board” you mean the LPU board ? The 2 fuses are OK on this one, and the board should be fine as I just replaced it.
        And by “the other one lateral” you mean the DC/DC board ? The 4 fuses are OK on this one as well. It’s on this one that I was checking the power.
        Is there any other fuse on the other board that I can check ?
        Thanks

      • canonrepair says:

        in this case try to check ALL flex cables.

  37. Marek Madisoo says:

    Hello, i have an issue with 600D powerboard, i got new one, but i forgot to picture the wiring, do yo u have any pictures of that ?

    Thank you

    • canonrepair says:

      600d DC-DC board:
      on the board you have a part with the code “151”.
      around it, You will find 4 marked points for the cables:
      XB dark grey
      XG light grey
      TY yellow
      TW white

  38. Dirk says:

    Canon 6D err 20
    Recieved a Canon 6D with little water damage. lower board was short circuited at the small ribbon pcb where it connects to main PCB. Replaced bottum PCB and ribbon, tested the main PCB in other 6D and found all oke. still err 20. Suspecting shutter now. any idears?

  39. canonrepair says:

    This is very strange, as the bottom PCB is not so expensive. I tried once to repair it, as I observed, that some FET-s are blown on the damaged board, but after changing them it was the same situation. I had no ore time to make experiments, so at the moment I better change them to a new one.

    • Miguel Morgado says:

      Thanks for your reply. I’ll buy the board when I have the funds. Now I’m bracing with a cano 28-80mm l and a 80-200mm l with fungus… Good work

  40. Miguel Morgado says:

    Canon 7d
    Hello Janos! I’m writing to you from Portugal. I’m sort of in the same business as you, the difference is that I buy broken material, repair it and sell. Just as a hobby. Recently I bought a broken canon 7d which the owner had already diagnosed in a canon repair center a faulty bottom board, due to the infamous loose screw. They wanted to replace the board, but that was too expensive. What I want to ask you is if you have already repaired any board with this failure or is a time waste and it’s better to replace with a new one. Thank you very much, Miguel.

  41. aaf says:

    Hi..

    about lens board controller (the PCB) would you share if you have found problem about lens main board and about solving problem, thanks a lot…

  42. prashant m pasarkar says:

    Canon 1000d
    In viwfindar bizzy err shows lcd dosnot on …..

  43. Laampalamu says:

    Canon EOS 350D, plate?

  44. Laampalamu says:

    There’s a Q component in top right corner, do you know what is it? Mine has burned up.

  45. Kdbcz says:

    Szia,
    Csak általánosan: ha van egy gép amelyiken az autofókusz pontatlan, hogyan állapítható meg, hogy mi ment el, sensor, tükör stb., vagy lényegtelen, utána állítanak szovtveresen és kész?
    Köszönettel:Kdbcz

    • canonrepair says:

      osszuk több részre a kérdést:
      – ha az AF mindig AZONOS módon téved (backfókusz, frontfókusz), akkor:
      – ha előzőleg szerelték, akkor a cmost kell előbb helyretenni, utána jöhet a szoftveres állítás (bár nekem sikerült már csak mechanikusan is helyretenni, de az nem általános)
      – ha csak a kopásoktól, akkor elég a szoftveres állítás
      – ha összevissza fókuszolt, akkor általában a tükörmechanika mozog, lóg – ilyenkor előbb azt kell megjavítani, csak utána érdemkes beállítani

  46. Chris says:

    I have been reading your material for over a year and it has been extremely helpful. Thanks for all your time in sharing your experience and knowledge.

    I am planning my first CMOS swap in a 40D. This has always given me some anxiety due to the FFD adjustment.

    I read your blog from December 30 2012 in which you describe the procedure you use. It all makes sense to me, and the only question I have relates to the measuring bench you constructed.

    What is the steel plate you obtained from the transfer pump used for? It appears to be fastened to the brake rotor and I assume the camera fits on to this plate to keep it from moving while taking measurements?

    As you need to constantly move the camera to take different readings, I cant figure out the purpose of this steel plate. I was just going to rest the camera’s lens mount on the rotor and slide it around when needed.

    Thanks in advance.

    • canonrepair says:

      hi Chris, the steel plate is the measuring base. the camera will be hold on the surface just by pressing it down, and HAS TO MOVE IN ANY DIRECTION in that plane, as the measuring points will be in different places.

      • Chris says:

        What is that other cylindrical metal component sitting on the rotor in one of the photos? I originally thought it was a machined part which mated with the lens mount to secure the camera to the base (brake rotor). As the camera needs to slide on the rotor surface, this components function has me perplexed.

        Sorry, I couldnt figure out how to attach a photo for clearer reference

      • canonrepair says:

        That is just an aluminium cylinder (could be of any other metal), just to hold higher the steel plate, because the camera has the flash and the handle in the front, which should have enough space, when the camera is on the steel plate. This is fixed to the brake disc, and the steel to the aluminium cylinder.

  47. Jonny says:

    Canon EOS 5D Mark I

    Hi there!
    I tried to repair my girlfriends 5D Mark I, which gave no sign of life after she used it the winter one year ago. I assume she just kept the camera in a warm room after using it out in the cold. At least I found some water stains close to fuse on the LPU-Board when I tried to repair it two month ago. So I already replaced the blown fuse close on the LPU-Board, but still no reaction when I switched it on. The next disassembling showed that the fuse was still well, so I checked for more errors and I found a second blown fuse on the DC/DC-Board. I’ve reassembled the camera but still no reaction.

    Few days ago I’ve checked the power consumption as explained in the service manual and if I remember right, the current was around 350uA (100uA is told for locked state, 150mA is told for standby) I’ve checked to fuse on the LPU-Board which is still ok.

    I could check the fuses again on the DC/DC board again, but for me it’s still a big thing to disassemble the whole camera. I’m going to do this at my work, so it’s better to know what to do, to find possible errors or to find out which PCB is broken. I’m a trainee and I can use my company’s oscilloscope, soldering irons,…

    I understand the circuit diagrams so I could measure the voltages at different points, to find the error. But I don’t know how to safely turn on the camera if I’ve disassembled parts of it, without stressing the cables.

    Maybe you have an idea what’s causing to problem or how I can do further researches to find the error.

    Best wishes,
    Jonny

    • canonrepair says:

      Canon EOS 5D Mark I
      a tfirst, check the flat cable between the PCB C and PCB D (the two big main PCB-s. This cable you can mount in 4 positions – and only one is good…
      if no sign of life after trying this, then probably the dc dc board is blown (the fuse cannot always save the electronic parts). it would be great to have a donor, for a quick check..
      to start the camera disassembled you have to block the switches under the battery door and under the CF card door.

      • Jonny says:

        Hi,
        thank you for your help so far!
        The cable between PCB C and PCB D was in correct possion, but the fuse F101 on the DC/DC-PCB, that I already changed, was blown again. I’m not sure if the main controller on the DCDC board is still working, but the MOSFETs of the buck regulators still seem ok and there is no short circuit to ground. I apllied 9V on the V_BAT connector to measure the different voltage levels the PCB should provide, to see if only the two voltage regulators, that are protected by the blown fuse, are broken or if the whole board is defect. Anyhow, there was no real power consumption and I wasn’t abled to measure any voltages on the board. Maybe I have to put load resitors to the different voltage outputs but I assume that the board only works, when it’s connected to other PCBs.
        I also measured the resistance from V0 and V2.5 to ground on the D-PCB, which didn’t indicate a short circuit as well.
        V0 and V2.5 are used by System-Block and for the Logic of the TFT Panel, but I still don’t know which PCB is blowing the fuse. Do you have an idea what could cause my problem or do you have a donor for 5D Mark I parts so i can send you the camera for checking and repair?
        Best wishes,
        Jonny

  48. Jonny says:

    Canon EOS 5D Mark I

    Hi there!
    I tried to repair my girlfriends 5D Mark I, which gave no sign of life after she used it last winter. I assume she just kept the camera in a warm room after using it out in the cold. At least I found some water stains close to fuse on the LPU-Board when I tried to repair it two month ago. So I already replaced the blown fuse close on the LPU-Board, but still no reaction when I switched it on. The next disassembling showed that the fuse was still well, so I checked for more errors and I found a second blown fuse on the DC/DC-Board. I’ve reassembled the camera but still no reaction.

    Few days ago I’ve checked the power consumption as explained in the service manual and if I remember right, the current was around 300uA (100mA is named for locked state, 150mA is named for standby) I’ve checked to fuse on the LPU-Board which is still ok.

    I could check the fuses again on the DC/DC board again, but for me it’s still a big thing to disassemble the whole camera. I’m going to do this at my work, so it’s better to know what to do, to find possible errors or to find out which PCB is broken. I’m a trainee and I can use my company’s oscilloscope, soldering irons,…

    I understand the circuit diagrams so I could measure the voltages at different points, to find the error. But I don’t know how to safely turn on the camera if I’ve disassembled parts of it, without stressing the cables.

    Maybe you have an idea what’s causing to problem or how I can do further researches to find the error.

    Best wishes,
    Jonny

  49. KK says:

    I have a friend that bought a replacement LCD display for his Canon 7D. Installed the new screen, and when the camera was powered on, the display was very dim. After cycling power a couple of times, the camera now gives Err 40. Besides a new LCD screen, any guesses if the issue is the bottom Flash PCB, or the DC/DC PCB above the battery chamber? I am guessing a fuse blew, but I am pretty sure you cannot buy fuses for the 7D.

    • canonrepair says:

      at first, try to check the bottom PCB.

    • Jonny says:

      It’s possible. You just have to check for the letter on it. I guess I bought some of these:
      http://de.farnell.com/schurter/3412-0121-22/sicherung-smd-usf0603-3-0a/dp/1162764RL
      or another one thats similar. But Schurter is using the same system with letters to name there fuses as canon does. You also should check for the size. 0603 is used in 5D Mark I but I’m not shure if the use the same package for 7D.

    • Jonny says:

      It’s possible to buy them. I bought two different fuses from schurter for a canon 5D.
      (http://www.schurter.com/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_USF_0603.pdf).
      Not every manufacturer of fuses uses the letter system schurter and the supplier of canon are using, to specify their fuses. If you’ve found the blown fuse, check for the letter on it and look for that letter in the datasheet, it stands for the rated current of the fuse. The size (package) of the fuses in the 5D is 0603 and I guess it will be the same for 7D. With these two information, it should be possible to find a distributor, how is selling small amounts of the fuses you need.

      • Kenny K says:

        The problem ended up being that when my friend put the camera back together, he did not record where every screw came from. This resulted in a screw that was too long being used on the bottom, which dug into the cable from the Main PCB to the Bottom PCB. I also located one of the bottom PCB screws stuck to a piece of tape under the top housing. It works great now, no fuses needed replacing.

  50. Filip Lolic says:

    Hi Janos,
    I know this is blog about Canon equipment, but do you have any experience with Sigma lenses (for Canon)?
    I am trying to disassemble Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6 DG HSM lens but I am stuck in the middle and don’t know how to continue… 😦
    The problem is, I don’t know how to remove “baffle ring” from the front side. Behind it there are 4 screws that I have to unscrew in order to proceed.
    I don’t know if that ring is screwed, glued or fixed with some clips, and I am afraid to apply force not to break something. I tried few tricks but that thing does not move at all. Can you help? 🙂
    I am talking about this:

    Regards,
    Filip

    • canonrepair says:

      sorry, I missed this comment somehow.
      So, the rings can be fixed in different ways: with adhesive tape, with the filters thread, or simly with some plastic pins, whih are perpendicular on the rings urface, and are pressed on some holes in the front element.
      In the second case You can use a cilindric object with the same outer diameter as the inner diameter of the lens, with a ring formed piece of rubber (form an old car tyre, or from a coffee machine sealing etc), which will work as a friction-surfase. You have then to press and rotate simultanuosly.
      In te third case yust a small flat screwdriver….

      • Filip says:

        Thanks Janos 😉
        I tried to pry it with small flat screwdriver but it does not move at all. It is most likely threaded. I will try to make suitable tool on my lathe, hopefully I will manage to unscrew it…
        Regards

  51. Tunde Szabo says:

    Kedves Janos!

    Segitseget szeretnem kerni! Canon eos 30D gepem ma akkutoltes utan bekapcsolt, kerte a datumbeallitast, az ev es honap kivalasztasa utan elsotetult az lcd kijelzo, majd magatol exponalt 2t, a felso kijelzon az err99 jelent meg es azota nem kapcsol be.
    Az aksijat a tolto feltolti, behelyezes utan a leptetotarcsa melletti kis kijelzo pirosan vilagitott, de masodszori behelyezes utan mar az sem.
    A canon honlap javaslatara letoroltem az objektivek erzekeloit, az aksit is megtorolgettem, cf kartyat csereltem, de semmire sem reagal 😦
    Tudna esetleg valami megoldast javasolni vagy esetleg hibajavitast tanacsolni, hogy mi lehet a problema?

    Valaszat elore is halasan koszonom!
    Udv,
    Szabo Tunde

    • canonrepair says:

      Kedves Tünde,
      nem használt vele véletlenül chippel ellátott manuális optikát? Ilyen hibát okozhat pl a táppanel meghibásodása, vagy a gép beázása, de éppenséggel egy, a gép belsejében kiesett csavar is. nyilván szét kell szedni egy rendes diagnózishoz.

  52. Ben says:

    Thanks man. I am going to send you some shots now.

    Ben

  53. Ben says:

    Hi Ruzsa,

    Great site. I have found some very useful info on here. Much appreciated. I have a question if you have any experience, or can offer some suggestions on how I should proceed with a Canon 28-70 L F2.8 that has back focus issues, and the focus is never really tack sharp, unless maybe if the subject is very close. I did some adjusting to minimize the chromatic aberration after following some information on here regarding another lens. I think I improved the state of the lens, but it is still too soft. Any suggestions would be great.

    Thank you,

    Ben

  54. Seppo Rinta-Kauppila says:

    Hi! Thanks for youd note.

    I do not actually know that is wrong with the lens. Manual focus seems ok. Mecanically and cosmetically the lens is in fair condition. Activating IS makes some noises and the lens gives Err01 after shutter release.in 5D.
    I suppose this might be the infamous flex cable issue?

    I bought the lens very cheaply from a second hand shop with a note ‘not working’ – now knowledge whatsoever about the previous history of the lens.

    I’d be glad if you accept the lens for inspection and eventual repair.

    How do we arrange the payment?

    Regards
    Seppo RK

  55. Seppo Rinta-Kauppila says:

    Hello!
    I’d need your help with Canon 24-105 Err01 – can I send the lens to you for repair?
    Could you contact me for more details please.

  56. Per says:

    Hi Janos,

    Thanks for all information and knowledge you are sharing with us.
    I have some lenses I have trouble repairing.

    EF 50mm f1,4 is badly front focus.
    I found your tips but my board doesn’t have the adjustment solder-pads, older or newer?
    Is it only adjustable by software?

    EF 16-35mm f2,8L not sharp.
    I purchased it broken after a floordropp.
    I changed the barrel and focus motor and its almost 100%, but I have trouble adjusting the rear lens. I move it in small portions and then try to look at the photos.
    Do you have any tips or tricks for that lens?

    As a happy hobby Canon photographer (50D, 1Ds II, 5D III) I have a lot of things but no software like the SPT. I still think its expensive but I have a question.
    If buying the 50D (essential) can I attach different lenses on that body and correct the focus for each lens or will the adjustment only “stay” in the house?

    Regards
    Per

    • canonrepair says:

      1 only through software
      2 if you have a reversing ring, use it as a macro lens reversed. the picture quality is the best reversed exactly then, when in normal position. and do the adjustment in liveview with a monitor.
      3 adjustments are done in the camera, not in the lens

  57. Kenji says:

    Hello Janos,
    thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
    I jsut wanted to know if it is possible to replace a 5d mkii main board with a used one.
    Did it work instantly or did it need initialization?
    Regards
    Kenji

    • canonrepair says:

      hi, it will work, but the shutter timing will be bad at higher speeds, AF will be absolutely wrong, and probably the exposure meter too.
      Without service software the replacement has no sense.

  58. canonrepair says:

    I had never enough time to compare a good and bad camera, so I always changed the board.

  59. Kk says:

    Do you have any of the specs on the fuses for the canon 7d? Or a link to where they can be ordered from? Thanks

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi!
      why, do You know, where the fuses are??? Beacause till yet i didn’t found them. I think they are no fuses in the 7d, just current limiting, and when something makes a real short (a screw), the DC-board (mainly the lower one) burns out. I have seen till now 4 such cases…

      • KK says:

        I contacted a US Canon parts distributor on which of the Canon fuses I should purchase for the DC/DC board. I was told that Canon does not list the fuses for the 7D seperately, they only sell the board as an assembly. Have you found the part that dies on the lower DC (flash) board when the screw gets loose? Or is it just easier to replace the whole board?

  60. OH says:

    Send me some more info!

  61. OH says:

    Hi!
    I have 3 Canon 40D cameras.
    One of the have a focus problem, When i try to focus on something it “hunts” and don`t lock focus.
    It happens in full auto and in p, tv, av, m mode. It`s a little bit better using single point / center focus.
    When i try to zoom a bit or move around it can suddenly focus.
    I have tried with 3 lenses and it`s the same. they work perfect on the other 2 cameras.

    Here`s a little video of the problem:

    https://www.dropbox.com/sc/k1bjkw5peug75eo/AADYEIwfHvmhgw_xxkh3tfLma

  62. Csilla says:

    Szia! Van egy canon 50mm f/1.8 as obim. A probléma az hogy egyszerűen akárhogyan állítom be a fokuszpontot a képek nem élesek meg f 4 nel is csak alig van javulás. Mit lehet vele kezdeni. Tudom ennyi penzertcnem minőség van. De a kép lehetne éles… Előre is köszönöm válaszod.

    • canonrepair says:

      Szia, az 50mm F1,8 mecahnikailag valóban nem egy csúcskonstrukció – a képének azonban nagyon jónak kell lennie. Ha mégsem az, akkor vagy nincs fókuszban (akármit jelezzen is vissza az AF rendszer), vagy pedig szétesett az egyik összetett lencsetag. Az elsőt egy Liveview-s géppel tudod ellenőrizni. A másodikhoz szét kell szedni az optikát. Ez utóbbi esetben kb 4-5000 forintos javítási költséggel kell számolnod.

  63. Hello,
    I dropped my 5d mkii and afterwards it worked briefly (for a minute or so). Then when I checked again it didn’t. The lcd screen shows only a mash of dense gray lines and there is nothing on the top screen. The mirror opens and closes when pushing the shutter but nothing else happens. The eos utility can see the camera, but when I try to take a photo this way, I only get a magenta/gray mash.
    Any ideas? I will also pass by Budapest in 10 days, would you be willing to take a look?

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi Luka,

      it’s hard to say anything without seeing the camera. If You are here, you can bring here the camera, but I need 1-2 days to check it. Can be that you have problem only with a flex cable – but I can say this only after disassembling it. You can have a broken shutter motor too. Write me on email, If you know your schedule.
      ruzsa.janos at canonrepair.hu

  64. OH says:

    Have you had any Canon 550d / Rebel T2i With battery problems?
    The battery drains very quick,
    Canon wants to change the battery box in the camera and do some adjusting (€360).
    I can get a battery box on ebay from €12, but what adjusting can they do?

    • canonrepair says:

      I think they don’t change ONLY the battery box, but the battery bow AND the DC-DC circuit (which is definitelly not 12 EUR) . In that case, theoretically You have to make a calibration of one PCB to the others. Or they make the setup for the lowest acceptable battery voltage.
      No other ideea.

  65. Zoran Simin says:

    I bought 24-70/2.8 II and have a problem with focus on my 5dmkII. Focus is not consistent, sometimes is correct sometimes I have back sometime front focus. With 5dmkIII is working perfect.With old 24-105 and with 100macro L and 135/2 5dmkII works fine.I had similar problems in past with some lenses like 35/1.4L.Do anyone have same problems?

    • canonrepair says:

      1 try with another 5dMk2 too
      2 always make separate tests for vertical and horizoltal targets (black line on white surface). I remember, I had once a 5dMk2 camera with a very big difference between th e two sensors – ca. 5 cm on 1 meter!
      This could mean, if you make a picture, and unfortunatelly the target ha a vertical line, the focus will be setting in another place, than in case of a horizontal line.
      in the camera the AF processor (or what) decidese AUTOMATICALLY, which AF sensor to use. (not the AF point. Behind each AF point you could have more sensors, for ex F2.8 sensors and F5.6 sensors, vertically, horizontally or even at 45 degrees.

  66. Ryan says:

    So the essential software doesn’t copy shutter settings? What would you charge to to the fix remotely? At the moment I am just repairing cameras for myself, but depending on how it goes i may do repairs for others as well.

  67. Ryan says:

    I have a 40d that i had to replace the main board in. I used the spt software (essential version) to copy data from the old board to the new board (old board had damaged pads for cf slot). Everything works except high shutter speeds (over 1/2500). Wondering if this is a shutter issue or a config issue that needs the advanced software.

    Ryan

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi,
      it’s the shutters normal behaviour, as all shutter have different curtain speeds, that means, curtain 1 and curtain 2 will run with different speeds and different delays. This is corrected from the software with different starting moments of the second curtain. As You couldn’t ccopy the timing value, You have this problem. There are 2 possiblilities: we can connect Your camera to my computer through the internet, and I can set up this remotely (this has a certain fee), or You can try to adjust the speed of the curtain with the pretensioning of the spring (this is for free of course :)).

      regards, János

    • canonrepair says:

      and yes, needs the adwanced software. do You repair only Your own camera, or You repair for others too?

  68. Hello,
    I have a problem with an old Cannon EOS 20D digital camera.
    Recently the camera can`t raise the main and secondary mirror all the way up and because of that the mirror casts shadows when shooting. Is there a way to solve this problem?
    photo: http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p213/darkves/IMG_8541r_zps75837d64.jpg

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi Milan. I’m sure it is possible to solve the problem – but for that You have to disassemble the whole camera. I could do it, and a repair is about 40-50 EUR. The question is, where do You live, does it have sense to send it through post or not?

      • Hi, thank you for the quick reply. Since I live in Serbia it isn’t recommended to send the camera because of the customs taxes. Have you seen such malfunctions before and is the problem in the spring or is something else the matter with it? Thank you in advance.

      • canonrepair says:

        I have seen something like this, but not on the 20d.
        In fact the mirror, as I know is moved upwards by a spring, and forced down by the mechanism. It could be, that Your spring is damaged, or, more possible, that You have something betwenn the spring aand the body or mirror. I have seen such a case with a screw, which blocked the mirror.
        There is no other way than disassembling the camera.
        Thera are some difficult points there, like: after taking out the screws from the back cover, be careful nor to tear of the flex cables. Or, as You will have to take out the sensor to get access to the shutter and mirror, You have to take out the shims from the sensor – be careful, there are different! The best is, after taking out the 3 screws and lifting the sensor to PUT BACK the 3 shims and the screws, and You will not swap them.
        And MAKE DRAWINGS (skethes) during disassembly – they are better then only taking photos.
        Good luck!
        What are You photographing?

  69. bertus11 says:

    Also Canon 40D.
    I have an other Canon 40D with a problem. The hinge on one side of the mirror is broken. Do you know if the mirror of a 30D is interchangeble, or does anybody know where to buy a 40D mirror?

  70. bertus11 says:

    Canon 40D.
    I have a Canon 40D with error 99. It has some strange shutter behaviour. Taking a picture gives an error 99. In live-view, the mirror comes up and the shutter opens, so I can see the sensor. Taking a picture now also gives an error 99.
    When I go to manual sensor cleaning, the mirror comes up, the shutter opens, but immediately closes again and the mirror comes back to standard position.
    Do you think the shutter is causing this problems?

    • canonrepair says:

      I think this is the typical 40d and 50d shutter problem. I had a camera recently (a 50d) with the same symptome. I changed the shutter to a used one, an dnow is perfect. I studied the shutter, but it was nothing to see. No interrupted solenoid, no mechanical problems. I think that it must be a problem with the shape of the cam which operates the curtains, I think it wears after a small numbers of actuations, and the mecanics engages the shutting of the second curtain before the solenoid is holdin git. but this is only a theoretical possibility.
      Just change the shutter.

  71. doragyula says:

    Kedves János!
    Egy 600D váz kártyaolvasója miatt kérnék segítséget. Egyszer csak elkezdte kiírni “A kártya írásvédett” bármilyen kártyát is teszek be, azaz nem tudok fotózni vele…
    A baj, hogy Indonézia műszakilag kevésbé felszerelt végében vagyok még 2 hétig, és nagyon kéne vele valamit kezdenem, mert a munkámhoz tartozik, hogy fotókat készítsek az ittlétem alatt. Talán tudok szerezni egy-két kisebb csavarhúzót, de a megbontáshoz is kéne némi segítség, rajz, utasítás.
    Ha tudnál segíteni, nagyon szépen megköszönném…

    Szép napot neked!
    Gyula

    • doragyula says:

      Itt – is – szeretnék köszönetet mondani azért, hogy Indonéziában meghibásodott gépem hazajutásában, táv-megjavításában és visszajuttatásában segítettél nekem. Azt gondolom, hogy mindenkinek tudnia kell azt a tényt, hogy én nem csak egy “javítást” kaptam, hanem egy igazi együttérzéssel és emberséggel kezelt helyzetmegoldást is.

      János! Köszönöm Neked!

      Tisztelettel egy nagyon elégedett fotós,
      Dora Gyula

  72. JC says:

    I have a dead 7D and am going to disassemble to check the P and K fuses which you report are often dead. You also mention in a 5D blown fuse page to measure the resistance between gnd and plus. Can I ask how?
    And also how big of a task is it to get to the DC board?

    • canonrepair says:

      STOP!
      At first try to check the battery. The 7d has an idiot battery type, which can make bad contact with the body. I disassembled a few weeks ao this camera – and after finding nothing in the inside, I realised, that the only problem was the battery….

    • canonrepair says:

      “The DC-board had a resistance of 2 ohms between the plus and the GND…..” Take an ohmmeter, and measure resistance WITHOUT the battery. Thats all.

      • JC says:

        Thanks for the quick reply. I shall get an alternate battery and report back!

      • canonrepair says:

        The problem is not necessarily with the battery. Could be the 2 contacts from the camera too.
        After disassembling the body, push in the battery and then measure the VOLTAGE on the DC board. Or try to push and pull the battery many times.
        If on the DC board appears the battery oltage, then the problem could be on the board, fuse etc.

  73. Erik says:

    Canon 50d

    Hello, I’m trying to repair a 50d that sustained water damage. Body is completely dry, and I’ve cleaned all corrosion I can find. When a battery is inserted nothing happens — no lights, motors do not move; and switching the unit on does nothing either. I suspect the dc/dc board as this was the most corroded and plugging power to this board alone gives no voltage difference on the pins which would connect the dc/dc board to the main board. There is a smd component labelled “JB 9K3” that is in an 8-pin smic package that is open (no conduction) which I think is the problem, since another identical component has a resistance of about 8 ohms. Given the number of pins, I think the component must be more than just a resistor, but I have been unable to find a description online. Do you know of any way to ID the components on the dc/dc board? And does my diagnosis sound ok? I’m planning on buying a new dc/dc board, but don’t want to waste $$ needlessly. Is there any way you know of to test the dc/dc board? Thanks! Love the blog.
    Erik

    • canonrepair says:

      after a water damage is difficult to save a camera. You should test a the cameras board in a functional body – but it’s risky for the good camera too. 50d and 40d have identical componenets too. could be that the difference is only in some connectors, and it is easier to find a donor 40d

    • canonrepair says:

      what abou t the bottom flash/DC board?
      that is important too.

      • Erik says:

        Thanks for the reply. The bottom board seems to be in better shape, but I have know way of knowing for sure. I have a working 40d, but am not sure if I want to try a board swap since it may damage the 40d like you said. With water damage, is corrosion usually the cause of problems? The component on the dc/dc board I think is bad doesn’t look corroded at all… I may just try my luck with a new dc/dc board since they’re only $50, but I guess there’s a good chance another board is bad too.

      • canonrepair says:

        check the big flex cable between the flash board and the main board. It is in a very unfavorable location, can get corrosion easily. If it is damaged, you can not turn on the camera.

  74. Anupreet Saluja says:

    Hey, My Canon Power Shot SX150 IS is giving lens error after I dropped it. I would like to drop it for repair. Please provide the address of your shop in Budapest.

    Thanks,
    Anupreet

  75. Paveszka Sándor says:

    Kedves János.
    Van egy EOS 7D gépvázam. Az a probléma vele, hogy a szenzoron található két pici kosz (két pötty) ami rekesz zárásra egyre intenzívebben látszik a képeken. C. kft szerint a gép beázott, ezért szét sem szedték, mert állítólag így nem érdemes… A váz hibátlanul működik, de állítólag a szűrő és a szenzor között van a két kosz. Az lenne a kérdésem, hogy vállalnád-e a tisztítását így a szenzornak, és a gépnek. Valamint, a fent említett kft által cserélhetetlennek ítélt mattüveg cseréjét is vállalnád-e?
    Előre is köszönöm a választ.
    Paveszka Sándor

    • canonrepair says:

      Nos, ha nem szedték szét, azt valószínűleg azért tették, mert ha eddig nem szakadt meg rajta valami, akkor egy szétszedés alkalmával akár megtörténhet.
      Ettől még persze érdemes – én biztosan megbolondulnék, ha az összes képen ott éktelenkedne egy folt. A fentiek figyelembe vételével (vagyis hogy esetleg totál halott lesz utána a váz) természetesen vállalom a javítást.
      A mattüveget nem egészen értem, hogy jön ide – azt miért kellene cserélni? Amúgy meg valahogyan biztosan lehet

      • Paveszka Sándor says:

        Magát a gépet szétszedték, tehát a burkolatot levették róla, csak tovább nem mentek, a szenzorhoz nem nyúltak. A mattüveg cseréjére azért lenne szükség, mert állítólag karcos. Igazából tisztíttatni vittem be a gépet, azt a véleményt adták, hogy nem gazdaságos a javítása, mert beázás nyomok vannak rajta. A mattüveg szerintük nem poros hanem karcos, de mivel mindennemű javítást gazdaságtalannak ítéltek, ezért az is maradt úgy, ahogy van.
        Örülnék, ha megnéznéd, véleményeznéd a vázat, ha rajtuk kívül te is azt mondod, hogy nem gazdaságos a javítása, belenyugszom, hogy minden képről le kell photoshoppolni a két foltot, de azért (mivel a gép hibátlanul működik azóta is) nem szeretném így lekukázni.
        Egy hozzávetőeleges időt tudnál mondani amennyit igénybe venne a diagnózis, és a tisztítás, ha mégsem reménytelen a dolog?
        Köszönöm.

  76. canonrepair says:

    It is interesting, it seems that the camera cannot communicate with the lens – athought he recognized, that there is a lens on the mount. If the camera was never repaired, You should check if there is any flex cable loose in the socket in the inside. if You have no experience with repair, better to give it to somebody to do it. One month ago i was in Your city, in Iasi.
    8daca vrei, poti sa scrii si pe romaneste si prin email)

    • Catalin says:

      Cel de la care am luat aparatul l-a folosit cu un Sigma 18-200mm. Mă gândesc că probabil fiind asa mare “plaja focala” a obiectivului consuma ceva curent si la focus si sa nu se fi dus vreo banda flex din montura. Cu obiective M42 aparatul merge perfect.
      O sa continuam discutia prin mail.
      PS: am incercat acum cateva luni sa desfac aparatul , am desfacut toate suruburile insa nu am reusit sa il desfac pe cel de sub grip si n-am reusit sa dau plasticul din fata jos pentru a vedea care e treaba.
      Merci.

      • Catalin says:

        Va rog sa-mi scrieti un mail pentru ca nu reusesc sa gasesc adresa dumneavoastra pe site. Multumesc.

      • canonrepair says:

        mmmda, asta e frumusetea meseriei.
        sunt cazuri, cand proprietarii ar lesina, daca ar vedea ce forta trebuie scoase unele suruburi.
        plus numai scule de calitate. daca ai ratat un surub, si ai distrus capul, nu existata a doua incercare, doar burghiul si flexul miniatur.

  77. Catalin says:

    Hello.
    I`m having a Canon 450D which gives ERR01. If I tape the lens contacts , the camera works wonderful in Manual mode (I have a full manual old M42 lens). From what I heard it seems that a flex cable or something like that is broken. Is this correctly?
    Someone told me that the problem is related to the mirror-box. If I replace it will the camera work as it should?
    Thanks.

    • canonrepair says:

      I cannot understand You 100%.
      does the camera not work with normal Canon EF lenses, and giving error ERR01?
      If Yes, the problem can be with the lens or the camera – mainly the lens flex cable is the problem.

      • Catalin says:

        No. The camera gives ERR01 with any kind of lens. I tried few 18-55mm and with all I get ERR01. But if I use an EOS-M42 adapter , my camera works flawless.
        PS: Flash not working either – shows BUSY all the time.

  78. Agi Frater says:

    Kedves János, már 2 Canon gépünk adta be a kulcsot. Az első egy PowerShot A70-es, a képen csíkok keletkeztek, először csak időnként, a végén pedig Karácsony előtt 2 nappal – már nem lehetett vele fényképezni. Kénytelen voltam venni egy másik gépet – ugye ünnep – PowerShot A590IS-re esett a választás, most lesz 5 éve. Lányom toszkánai útjának 2. napján nem nyílt ki az optika. Kénytelen volt az okostelefonjával fotózni az út alatt. Elvittem javítóba, teljes optika cserét mondtak 18 ezer+mdíj. Nem hagytam ott. Valami kicsi fogaskerekei darálódtak le, azt mondták. Van-e olcsóbb javítási lehetőség (remény), vagy megint vegyünk egy új kamerát? Megjegyzem, mr nincs bizalmam a Canonhoz.

    • canonrepair says:

      Kedves Ági,
      sajnos ezeket a kompakt gépeket alapvetően nem az örökkévalóságnak tervezték, sem pedig javíthatóra.
      Én nem is szívesen javítok ilyeneket. Sokkal jobban járnának, ha vásárolnának egy rendes tükörreflexes gépet – teljesen más világ. használtan pedig nem is megfizethetetlen – persze ha megbízható a forrás

  79. I can’t find such a gauge… Can you give me a link from where to buy it?

  80. Hi. I have Canon 500D and the body makes massive backfocus with any lenses that works fine on other bodies. I put main board on other 500D body and same thing – backfocus. Can you tell me how to adjust focus point by software or what you think about this problem? Back focus is appear on both AF and MF. On liveview mode is OK. Thanks in advance.

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi!
      I think Your camera was disassembled before to deep – I mean, somebody has taken out the cmos (the sensor) too.
      By this camera – and a lot of new types – this is not possible, because the cmos is adjusted with the 3 screws, NOT with the shims.
      Afterm assembling it back Your AF sensor and your matte screen are in the original position – but the sensor not.
      Don’t put a mainboard from another body to a camera if you don’t have a servisce software – AF will not work correctly.

      So, If You focus with AF or with the manual method, the picture will be sharp in the original position – but the sensor is not there.
      See this:
      https://canonrepair.wordpress.com/2012/12/30/how-to-adjust-the-position-of-the-sensor-in-a-dslr-camera/
      It’s not easy to adjust, as You will need a measuring stand, and to make some calculations too.
      If You can send me the camera, I can adjust it for you, but I’m afraid sending it to Hungary would be more expensive, than my fee.
      Or, build Your own stand – shortly i will put the calculations on my homepage.

    • canonrepair says:

      where are You from?

      • I’m from Bulgaria. I will try to make measuring stand but i must to wait for those calculations you say. I’m very glad for fast response and for your advices.

      • canonrepair says:

        Do the measuring stand, I will help You with the calculation, don’t worry. You can see from the site, how it should be made. Important is a dgital measuring gauge with 1/1000 mm resolution.

  81. aaf says:

    Hi again,

    do you know about the source of Tamron sparepart store…. I need some items according to difragma motor problem, the motor is frozen, not move and the motor is hot, thanks in advance.

  82. aaf says:

    also have 2 unit of EF 16-35 here, the 2 lens fall and the mounting broke, after fix the mount… the AF is not work and the USM not move at all… anyone face the USM problems and what cause this symptoms…… grrrrrr…..

  83. aaf says:

    I have a EFS 17-85 and the USM not move at all, buy the new one focusing unit and still the USM not move… is the problem came from the mother board or else? thanks in advance….

    • canonrepair says:

      I have repaired once a 17-55 (not the same, but also a Canon lens), which case the stabiliser was not connected, has no aperture control (only in one sense – in closing), and with the bad position sensor (the metal comb on the barrel) has n autofocus moving.
      So, by this lenses failer in one part of he lens can cause a problem in the functioning of the other. Of course in such cases the easiest would be to check with a donor. Where do You live? I have a 17-85 now on my desktop – with only aperture flecable failure.
      Or sell me the bad 17-85 in this form.

  84. Pontosan ! A hiba stimmel ! Ha maxra allitom blokkol ! Ha csak megkozelittem akkor addig mukodik ! Szoval csak a maxnal blokkol. Szivesen elvinnem, csak Nagyvaradi vagyok !
    Hova kellene vigyem, vagy esetleg kuldenem ?

  85. Hello, nagyon praktikus az oldalad, gratula ! Probaltam keresni a problemamra egy valaszt, de nem talaltam, pedig biztosan letezik. Roviden 40D, error 01, lencse nem kommunikal a geppel.
    Allandoan fokuszalgat, majd leblokkol. Objektiv 17-85 alap objektiv. Tulajdonkeppen hol megy, hol nem, nehe tudok vele dolgozni majd egyszercsak bekattan, es kesz ! Szoval hol megy hol nem ! Egyebkent minden mas tokeletesen mukodik.

    • canonrepair says:

      szia, pedig ez elég gyakori hibája a 17-85 optikának. megtörik benne a szalagkábel, de mivel nem szakad el teljesen, bizonyos állásokban még működik, illetve, ha nem kell rekeszelnie az optikának, mert maximális nyitásnál ahsználod, akkor nem jelez hibás működést.
      próbáld ki, hogy tekerd az optikát 17mm ill 85 mm állásba, majd rekeszelj le , pl 16-ra, majd nyomd meg a blendebeugrató gombot a gép oldalán. az egyik végállásban már nem fog működni.
      ha ez a baja, nálam pl 13000 forintért javítható.

  86. rivera says:

    Helló, tanácsot szeretnék kérni: van egy Canon 35L 1.4-es objektívem, amin a fókuszgyűrű gumi borítása (nem tudom mi a hivatalos neve) meglazult, lötyög. Használatban nem zavaró, de eszétikailag, illetve a tudat hogy nem tökéletes zavar. Házi DIY módszerrel meg lehet ezt javítani? Arra gondoltam hogy csöppentek alá 1-1 csepp pillanatragasztót két oldalt, de nem merem kérdés nélkül megtenni. Köszönöm, r

  87. Aaron Adler says:

    Hello! Great blog!
    I recently took apart my old L Series 17-35mm Canon lens because a screw had come loose inside and was bouncing around inside the body. I took apart the body and and found the screw, it was one of two screws that attached the fork/swipe mechanism to the inside of the zoom, and reattached it. I replaced all the screws and electric cables to their proper places. However, I now get a Err 01 message on the camera! I’ve seen on your site, and others, that a faulty flat cable mechanism on the 17-88 lens can cause this message; but I’ve seen nothing about this on a 17-35mm lens. Could I have damaged the flat cable when I opened the lens? Will replacing it fix the error message?
    Any other ideas?
    Thanks!

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi!
      Thanks 🙂

      By the Canon lens I have seen many cases, when even small faults (for ex. aperture problem) will cause illogical errors. For ex by the 17-55 F2,8 IS the aperture error makes problems by the AF function and the IS…
      So, it can be the flex cable, but can be for example the position sensor – the metal comb on one of the barrels.
      No other method – systhematic check.
      János

  88. Lukács István says:

    Szia Gábor.
    Nem nincs hibakód.
    Van úgy hogy simán lehet vele éles képeket fotózni ,de vannak esetek hogy eggyáltalán nem tudja élesre beállítani.

  89. Lukács István says:

    Kedves János.
    Szeretném a tanácsodat kérni 2 problémával kapcsolatban.
    Vettem egy autófókusz hibás Canon EF-S 17-85 IS USM obit, kicseréltem a szalagkábelt, de sajnos nem szűnt meg a hiba.
    Lenne ötleted, hogy esetleg mi lehet a hiba oka (lehet USM motor hibája)?
    Van egy CanonEOS 550D-s gépem most, hogy próbálgatta a fenti obit azt vettem eszre, hogy ferde a keresőben látott kép (a szobában a szekrényt nézve vettem észre).
    A Kit obival is ezt csinálta.
    Szerinted mi lehet a hiba?
    Előre is köszönöm!

    • canonrepair says:

      Szia,

      sajnos a blendekábel forrasztása nem mindig sikerül, van, hogy nem éli túl a blendemodul – valószínűleg a végállásérzékelő optokapu halálozott el.
      Lehet hozzá rendlni teljes blendemodult. Vagy mégiscsak rosszul forrasztottál.
      Ettől még persze lehet hibás az USM motor is. Mi a pontos jelenség?

      Ha a keresőben ferde a kép, akkor ferdén áll a főtükör. Speciel pont az 550d-ben elég bénán oldották meg. Ezt ne próbáld otthon szétszedni, mert utána sokkal nehezebb lesz beállítani a CMOS-t. Olcsóbb, ha rögtön elhozod.

  90. Paveszka Sándor says:

    Kedves János!
    Tegnapi napon az alábbi üzenetet kaptam a hivatalos márkaszervíztől, a tisztításra otthagyott EOS 7D gépemmel kapcsolatban:
    A mattüveg karcos, a készüléket valószínűleg szétszedték, hiányoznak a csavarok. A gépben minden alkatrészen nedvességnyomok vannak, a CMOS filmsíkját elállították. A megbízható működéshez mindent cserélni kellene, azonban ez gazdaságtalan, ugyanis meghaladja a készülék újkori értékét.
    A mattüveg számomra a leglényegtelenebb dolog, de a többi információ kicsit aggaszt.
    Képet is kaptam mellékletben a fényképező belsejéről, azt esetleg el tudom küldeni, ha segít megmondani, hogy meg lehet-e javítani, vagy hogy érdemes-e.

    Előre is köszönöm a segítséget.

    Paveszka Sándor

    • canonrepair says:

      Kedves Sándor,
      a mattüveggel nem sokat lehet tenni, bár ha kosz is van rajta, azt nyilván el tudom távolítani.
      A cmos-t teljesen vissza tudom állítani az eredeti pozíciójába, időigényes művelet, de megoldható.
      A nedvességnyom attól függően kritikus, hogy mikor történt, meg hogy esővíz, csapvíz vagy tengervíz. Ez szétszedéskor látszik, meg az is, ha esetleg valóban korrodálódott is valami. Ha még nem, akkor az ÖSSZES panelt, kábelt ki kell szerelni, elmosni vízben, majd alkoholban stb, majd utána kiszárítani.
      Mindenképpen gyorsan, mert ha a teljes gép nem lenne megmenthető, még akkor is meg kell menteni minden használhatót.
      Természetesen érdemes vele foglalkozni.

      János

      • Paveszka Sándor says:

        Kedves János!

        Nincs tudomásom róla, hogy a beázás mikor történt, az biztos, hogy több, mint fél éve. A fényképezőgép azóta is hibátlanul működik, de a hivatalos szervíz szerint nem gazdaságos a javítása. Igaz, én ezen alkatrészek javítását nem is kértem, egy szétszedéses szenzortisztításra küldtem be a fényképezőgépet.
        Esetleg a szenzor rossz elhelyezkedése milyen optikai hibát ad a képen? (Én személy szerint kicsit több, mint 5 éve fotózom, de semmi hibát nem tapasztalok a képen.) A visszahelyezését Ön milyen árért, milyen idő alatt tudja vállalni?
        Előre is köszönöm a válaszát.

        Paveszka Sándor

  91. Damir says:

    Hi…
    I have Canon 24-105 4L IS USM, with error 01 (Flex Cable i think)….
    I completly disassembled the lens, and then assembled it again (without any replacement of parts), and it worked again, just when I thurn the IS on, it starts to jump creazy from time to time…
    What could it be????
    Thanks….

  92. Endre says:

    Kedves János!
    Van egy 30D-m, amin az exponálógomb valószínűleg elfáradt – a január 18-i bejegyzésedben leírtakhoz hasonlót produkál. Tudsz esetleg segíteni?
    Előre is köszönöm:
    Endre

  93. aaf says:

    Hi…

    what the best temperature on soldering the flex on lens and also the best methode to do that 🙂 thanks in advance

    • canonrepair says:

      the best method is to use desoldering wire at first. for soldering I use a weller iron, I don’t know the exact temperature, but I think high temperature and short soldering is better then low temperature, because the plastic base could be melted.

  94. Simon says:

    Do you have a used or broken 350D main pcb? I would desolder some FETs as replacement.

    Regards,
    Simon

    • canonrepair says:

      in fact yes, but I keep them for spareparts. What do You need exactly?

      • Simon says:

        I just ordered some replacement mosfets for the 1.2V circuit and the 14V. Its hard to get the original ones as they are no longer produced. But i think i found some replacement types. Unfortuantely in different packages but i should get it mounted.
        If that does not bring it back to live i think i would need a whole main pcb 😦
        But first i will give the replacement a try.
        regards,
        Simon

  95. Simon says:

    Hi!

    I hava a new toy/patient:a broken 350D. One problem was a broken shutter button
    (i soldered in one from a broken powershot camera, perfect fit & working).

    The only problem left is that the TFT does not work at all.
    The TFT backlight stays off and i can not see anything even when i put an external lamp next to it.
    The Background LED for the LCD does not work as well.

    The two fuses i found are ok. Any hints? Do you know where the voltages are generated? Th supposed DCDC Board (that is soldered to the battery compartment) does not look like that there are stepdown/up converters.
    To me it looks like the Stepdown/up converters are on the main PCB? Can you confirm this?
    The number of Inductors (6) matches the 6 voltages i can see in the part diagram.

    Regards,
    Simon

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi,
      the backlight gets 14 volt from the dc-dc board, as I see on the wiring., and on the display panel should have only a switch (a fet i think).
      If You need, I have a used back panel (complete).

  96. Gergo Onodi says:

    Tisztelt János!
    Egy árajánlatot szeretnék kérni egy Eos 550D “takarítására” szeretném eladni, de nemrégiben észrevettem, hogy koszos a mattüveg, de a takarítás közben megkarcoltam. szerencsére semmit sem befolyásol, de szeretném ha szakértő kezek takarítanák ki a gépet, és amennyiben megoldható szeretnék árat egy mattüveg cserére is, amennyiben ez nem aránytalanul drága.
    Gergő

    • canonrepair says:

      Kedves Gergő,

      hát 550d mattüvegem az nincs, ha esetleg másig vázé jó bele, akkor ki lehet cserélni. A takarítás gondolom tükörakna, mattüveg plusz cmos nedves tisztítása lenne, ez így együtt kb 5000 forint ennél a kategóriájú gépnél (számlával).

      János

  97. Tisztelt János!
    A következő baleset történt a tegnapi napon; Terepen a szántón, a térdig érő belvízes sárban elestem, és megmártottam a saras vízben a Canon 40D-met.
    Eleinte be sem kapcsolt, meg néha érthetetlen módon kattogtatta a zárat, de mostanra itthon sikerült úgy megtisztítani, szárítani, hogy minden funkciója, gombja működik.
    Azonban rátéve az egyik objektívemet, mikor lőni akartam, kiírta az ERR01-est, miszerint ha jól értelmeztem az elől lévő érintkezőivel lehet a probléma, ugyebár nem érzékeli az obit, nem tud fókuszálni, nem látja a rekeszt..
    Ez ha jól sejtem, mindenképpen a gépnek tudható be, mivel az összes objektívemmel megpróbáltam, és amelyeknek van autófókusza, azaz elektronikája, azokkal nem működik, csak a manuális obijaimmal.
    Mi lenne a teendő?
    Előre is köszönöm válaszát.
    Kőrös Tamás

  98. Berényi Zsolt says:

    Kedves János!
    Van egy Canon 50mm f1.8 lencsém ami “szétesett” (fókusz gyűrű és az objektív burkolatnál szétválik.
    Vállalja a javítást?

  99. abb says:

    Szia,
    Very good blog, I have two 40D and try to solve the errors that they have but I would not open them because I do not have experience.
    The first one is throwing Err 99 when try to shot, the problem I see is the curtain that does not open (ex. in live view everything is black, the senzor is not exposed). Is possible that the shutter is broken? Should I send it to service?
    The second has some problem now with the shutter button, the AF press stage is not working fast (I work now with AF-ON to lock the AF), the fire stage is working normal. Cleaning from inside out (where the battery is) with alcohol can damage the camera?
    Thanks

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi,
      thanks.
      If You get the ERR99 only after activating the shutter, and the shutter works, thats fine. (err 99 could be the mainboard too – thats much worst.) Yes, you have to send it to the service – or to me. (Post to Hungary is ca 24 EUR, back the same). About the repair cost we can discuss in mail. I have used but perfect shutter for ex, and I can adjust the body after repair. In some cases there is possible to adjust mecjanically the shutters springs too.
      About the second question: pls don’t do idiot things like cleaning a bad pushbutton with alcohol. A pushbutton has a lifetime, it should be changed. I can do it for You too – or the service.
      By a servicing normally You get a cmos cleaning too – which is not so bad for the camera.
      And You can write me in the mail in german language too.

  100. dorian says:

    Hi! I have a Canon 50D with a bit of history behind it: I broke off two pins of the CF socket last year, found a guy in Germany that went on to fix it. Got it back after a while, saw the guy had screwed up something on the main pcb and got a replacement one from ebay. Now the camera works fine except one thing: AF. In Liveview with that contrast-focus it works ok, but the usual phase-detection-AF sensors don’t work. When they say it’s focussed correctly it really is not. Now I’m thinking there’s two possibilities: either my good repairmain screwed up something else (I don’t know whether he tried to remove the wrong part and accidentally unscrewed the sensor or sth. like that) or the camera main pcb gets an initial focus calibration at the factory that it’s missing now. What do you think?

    • canonrepair says:

      Dorian, if You change the mainboard You HAVE TO reprogramme it for the body. Not only for the AF – there are a lot of specific values. You have no other chance, bring the camera to a workshop, which has the Canon software or the SPT software. I have the SPT but only for 40d.

  101. rp says:

    Szia János, az 5d2 vázam produkál olyan érdekes jelenséget, amit nem tudok hová tenni. Az optikai keresőben a kép időnként elsötétül fókuszálás után de még exponálás előtt. Ha kicsit föl-le döntöm a gépet, akkor elsötétül-kiváligosodik-elsötétül. Az obi levétele/felcsavarása és egy ki-bekapcsolás megoldja a problémát. Több objektívvel is csinálja, nagyon rendszertelenül. Van hogy hetekig semmi, aztán naponta 1-2x előjön. Van ötleted hogy mi lehet a probléma? Köszi és üdv r

    • canonrepair says:

      valahogy elmaradt a válasz – bár nem is tudom, mit írjak.
      ilyet ugyebár az okoz, ha a váz aktiválja a blendebeugrasztást.
      azt pedig egy kapcsoló (nyomógomb) tudja csak, ami a váz oldalán van, az optika mellett. Kontakthiba? Elszabadult csavar?
      Én megnézetném belülről valakivel.

  102. Alexandru says:

    Sorry but sent it to canon for repair end naw is not efficient to take it back for repair.Your price is good!thanx a lot!keep in touch!i repair cameras for my self end y have too spare parts.for naw i have a canon 10d for spares!if you ever need a part for that camera please ask!by the way you have a great blog!

  103. Alexandru says:

    Hello!what is the cost for the canon 40d dc/dc booard?thanx in advance!

    • canonrepair says:

      let we say 35 EUR.
      the problem is, that exactly by the 40d a part of the dc board is integrated on the flash board (the board on the lower side of the camera).
      Are You sure , that the problem is with the upper (DC-DC) board?
      I prefer to repair a camera by myself, it’s more secure for You too, and in that case I can check the 40d with the service software (for no suplementary charge), or to make fo example focus adjustment for some symbolic money.

  104. Mezei Zsolt says:

    Köszönöm! Idő közben azonban a blog leírásai alapján (! :)) ami hibátlan útmutatást nyújt , szétszedtem a gépet .A hátsó panel árnyékolók és a szalagkábelek láthatólag viztől rozsdafoltosak voltak !Weller pákával , (mivel a múltból még az is van ) árnyékolók le ! Kontakt sprével 95 % letisztítottam őket ! A gép nem működik – akksi ki ! Másnap reggel mivel a gépeknek lelkük van ugye ,még egy próba ! Hibátlanul minden funkció működik !!Ezután fotózás ,a képek mentése ,hibátlanul működik! – – Akksi ki ,megint teljes sötétség ! ! 2-3 óra akksi nélküli “pihentetés” után ,de ismét működik ! Lehet hogy az akksi -nál van kontakt hiba ,de a fémvázat már nem mertem szét bontani ,így azon a panelen nem tudtam megnézni a kontaktust. Még valami – a dátumot is nullázza ,ha a hibát produkálja , pedig első lépésben kicseréltem a 3v-os memória gombelemet egy újra ! Szeretném megmenteni a gépet , mert nekem megfelelő képeket készít . Várom a további véleményét , addig is egyre többet próbálom a gépet ! Köszönöm a figyelmét ! M. Zsolt .

    • canonrepair says:

      ez az a pont, ahol a panelokat kellene kicserélni, esetleg azt a kábelt lehet ellenőrizni, ami a kis gombelem feszültségét, viszi a főpanelra. Bár ha ilyenkor minden halott, lehet, hogy a testkábellel van a probléma, mert abból csak egy van mindkét áramforrás számára

      • Mezei Zsolt says:

        Köszönöm a választ ! A test kábelt majd megnézem ,de tényleg érdekes a dolog ,mivel két nap alatt a sok ki-be kapcsolás és akksi töltés után jelenleg a gép már tökéletesen működik.Most egyáltalán semmi hiba nem jelentkezik !!!Gondolom sokat segített rajta az Ön útmutatásai alapján elvégzett tisztítás is ! Ezért is köszönöm a sok segítséget amit Ön nyújt a fotósoknak a munkájával !! További minden jót kívánok . Mezei Zsolt .

  105. Mezei Zsolt says:

    Tisztelt Uram !Vettem egy rég nem használt “nem működő ” de két jó objektíves Canon 350D gépet kezdő tükör reflexes gépnek ,tárgy fotózáshoz..A gép évek óta nem üzemelt ! Reméltem csak akksi probléma.Vettem új 850 mAh-s akksit..Töltés után a gépen a kijelző kb 20-30 bekapcsolás közben 2 szer működni kezdett ,majd elsötétül, és a gép teljesen ” néma” .Kiváló blogját olvasva kontakt hibára gyanakszom .Tanácsát kérném abban ,hogy meg merjem bontani a gépet ,mivel 20 éve finom műszerészként dolgoztam , de az elektronikához mérés szinten nem értek ! Köszönettel :Mezei Zsolt

    • canonrepair says:

      Bocsánat, egyszerűen elfelejtettem rá válaszolni.
      Én nyilván azt mondom, hogy meg kell bontani a gépet, ahhoz csak egy PH00 csavarhúzó kell – ugyanakkor a hibakereséshez már szükség van némi elektronikai tudásra, finom pákára, multiméterre, esetleg donor alkatrészekre (mert azzal 5 perc alatt el lehet dönteni, hogy melyik fődarab hibás. Ez utóbbiak miatt tehát inkább nem bátorítanám.
      A problémák a hátfal levételénél kezdődnek, hogy ne szakítsa le egy mozdulattal a flexibilis kábelt.

  106. Gergo Onodi says:

    Kedves János!
    A egy olyan talán nem túl szokványos kérdésem lenne, hogy egy 550D-nek rázásra szabad-e lötyögő hangot adnia? Körülbelül a mattüveg magasságából hallom a hangot, mintha egy csavar, vagy müanyag pöcök elszabadult volna. Valamint sokat próbálgattam, és gondolkodtam, hogy esetleg a vázam valamilyen módon fókuszhibás, mivel egy időszakban az elkészült képek jórésze fókuszhibásan jött vissza gépre töltéskor (olyan minimális hiba hogy az lcd-n nem látszott) de később elvetettem ezt az elméletet mivel azokat a képeket főleg újrakomponálással készítettem nagy fényerejű objektívekkel.
    Tudna esetleg árajánlatot küldeni a zörgő alkatrész kivizsgálására, és egy fókusz ellenőrzésre az objektíveimmel? Üdv, Gergő

    • canonrepair says:

      Szia,
      a beépített vakus Canon-okban a vaku alkatrészei (kis fém összekötők). Ha kinyitod a vakut és megfogod őket, akkor ne zörögnek.
      Ettől még a gépben lehet egyéb elszabadult alkatrész.
      Ami a fókuszhibát illeti, eddig 2 550d-vel találkoztam, aminél ez jeletkezett. Nekem úgy tűnik, gyárilag rosszul tervezték meg a tükör felfüggesztését. lehet rajta módosítani – előtte persze tesztelni kell. Csak a teszt 2-3000 forint. Ha szét kell szedni és módosítani, akkor az nagyságrendileg 10-15000 forint (számlával) – szét kell szedni a teljes gépet.
      üdv. János

  107. aaf says:

    hello again,

    how to do to simple test to know the USM or mother board is defect? thanks…

  108. Tisztelt János,
    egy kiadós szánkózas utan a gépem nem ismerte fel tobbet az aksiját, vagyis nem kommunikáll vele… a gép amúgy müködik, viszont standby ban is lemerül…. Egy EOS 7Dről van szó, esetleg tapasztalltál hasonló problémát ? Talán a kondenz zárlatolt össze valamit? Köszönettel, Aba

    • canonrepair says:

      rákerestem, a net tele van vele, pl itt: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3091057
      viszont ez az érdekes:
      http://www.advancecamera.com/
      “Canon EOS 7D “Cannot communicate with battery” error
      The Canon 7D is an excellent camera and a true work horse. However, this camera is known to have problems which show up as an Error 30, 40 or 80. Since we specialize in camera repair, we see all sorts of problems. Recently, we received a 7D for repair, which was giving the “Cannot communicate with battery” error. Since we have the ability to plug the camera into the computer and download the cameras self diagnostics, we were able to pinpoint the problems, which were: the camera would not recognize the battery and would intermittently lock up, the self cleaning sensor function was also failing, all pointed to a problem with the lower PCB (printed circuit board). Now that we have identified the location of the problems, our lead repair technician Dave, disassembled the camera and found the following issues: loose ground screws and connectors going to the lower board, and the main flex connector between the lower PCB and main board had corrosion/tarnish on two of the points. After he cleaned all the switches, contact points, re-sealed the screws so they wouldn’t back out we re-programed the camera shutter through the specialized software the camera works flawlessly. In this situation, the cost to disassemble the camera completely, clean, adjust and reprogram the camera runs $249 in labor, which includes a 1-year warranty.”

      Attention! This whas only a quotation froma a site – I don’t know, if it’s true or not. (canonrepair)

  109. Simon says:

    Hey!

    My 50d works again, the motor was faulty although the coil, magnet etc looked good! strange!

    I have a new toy, a broken 50 f/1.4 lens. The AF USM motor does not move, it makes only a very slight noise.
    I took pictures with a scope from the signals (at the motor contacts).

    without motor connected i see some strange sine waves:

    when i connect the motor i see this:

    looks like the motor has a short circuit?! has anybody seen that before?

    motor dead or broken pcb?

    regards,
    Simon

    • canonrepair says:

      At the moment I have no oscillogramm, I will try to make it tomorrow.

      • Simon says:

        Hi!

        The lens is working again. I transplanted an USM motor from another lens repair part into that one. Works fine again!
        The broken motor has short circuits betwen 3 pins. No idea how that can happen.

        Regards,
        Simon

  110. Dirk says:

    Hello, good forum here! i have a problem with a 40D which is completetly dead.
    Can you share with me where all the fuses are located on the camera (SMD fuses).
    Thx
    Dirk

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi,

      as I know, the 40d has only one “P” type fuse (3 Ampere), it is located on the flash/dc/DC board, which is on the bottom. You can check this fuse only after taking out the board, because it is on it’s upper side. (A “P” is written on it).
      I have seen many 40d-s with small tin balls on the surface of the board – from the factory! This small balls can start to move on the PCB, making short-circuit between the pins. Check the surface of the DC/DC board too! (Located on the upper side of the camera).

      And if You want to sell the camera as it is, plese send me a mail.

      János

  111. aaf says:

    Hi…

    nice blog and very good research….

    I have and already fixed aperture cable of TAMRON 10-24 the problem is if take photo with camera mode I got the error report but if take in video mode the photo is fine (I also test the aperture lens in video mode and the diapraghm is fine from the biggest to smallest opening) so the problem seems not in diapraghm.

    whats the problems of this symptoms, any suggest? thanks

  112. Farkas Szabolcs says:

    Kedves János!

    Még augusztusban vettem egy használt Canon 1D mark II gépet, ami valami okból kifolyólag, ha túl világos háttérrel fényképezek valamit, mindig túlexponál, sötét képet csinál, teljesen sötétet. Nem is kell exponálni, már a fénymérésnél nagy zársebességet javasol. Ha a kompenzációt +3-ra állítom, akkor csinál jó képeket. Az az érdekes, hogy sötétebb háttérben, pl. erdőben, teljesen normál képeket csinál a gép…

    Ön szerint mi lehet a hiba?

    Segítségét előre is köszönöm, üdvözlettel:

    Sz.

    • canonrepair says:

      arra tudok gondolni, hogy esetleg valamilyen belső fényelnyelő felület levált / hiányzik, ezért a világosabb kép betükröződik, és több fény kerül a fénymérőre, mint kellene. gondoltam még nem bele való mattüvege is, de +3 fényérték az rengeteg.

  113. bertus11 says:

    Canon EOS 40D
    Hello,
    I have a problem with a Canon 40D.
    When I switch on power I get an error message that the CF card is not formatted.
    When I go in the menu to “Formatting”, after a few seconds with a status bar
    filling to the end, it ends up with the message “cannot format the CF card”.
    I have the same problem wit a card that comes right out of a camera that stored
    foto’s on this card, so it cannot be a formatting problem.
    I looked to the pins of the slot but no pins look to be bend.
    I’m affraid that there is a hardware problem in the camera and as far as I can
    see, the CF-slot is on the main PCB.
    Does this mean that the main PCB is broken or do you have an other idea?

    Regards,
    Bert

    • canonrepair says:

      It can be a blown fuse.
      The CF card driver is on the main board…..

      • bertus11 says:

        I got an other 40D today. I put de mainboard of the camera with the CF error in the new camera and got the same problem in the new camera, so it seems to be a problem with the mainboard. I looked for fuses on the mainboard but could not find any fuses. Do you know if there are fuses on the mainboard or are they perhaps on the DC/DC board?
        Regards,
        Bert

      • canonrepair says:

        bottom board (with the big capacitor).
        DC board? (not sure)

  114. Szia János!
    Kaptam egy canon 350d használt gépet. A gépnek egy hibája van, néha error 99-et csinál.
    Több dolgot kipróbáltam már, hogy hátha megszűnik, de sajnos nem jött össze. Most sikerült kipróbálnom másik obival is a gépet, és így már nem csinálta. A géphez gyári obit kaptam canon zoom lens ef-s 18-55mm. Utána olvasva, azt a hibát kaptam, hogy ezeknél az obiknál az átvezető kábel sérül, és ez okozza az error99-et. Legtöbbször akkor kapom a hibát, ha nem közelíttek rá az obival semmire, ha közelíttek, akkor többnyire jó képeket csinál. Kérdésem az lenne, hogy házilag ki lehet-e cserélni a kábelt, illetve hol tudok ilyet beszerezni?
    Előre is köszönöm.
    Üdv: Isti

    • canonrepair says:

      szia,
      ez most 18-55, vagy 18-55 IS?
      Utóbbiban a fókuszvisszajlező kábel szokott eltörni (ha leveszed a bajonettet, már látszik), előbbiben a blendekábel.
      A fókuszvisszajelző a “focus flex cable” varázsszavakkal kereshető meg az ebay-en, a másik pdig “aperture flex cable”
      Természetesen mindkettő javítható otthon.

      ui: a bajonettet csak óvatoan, mert az IS-nél arra megy egy vékony flex-kábel!!!

      • isti624 says:

        Ez a 18-55-ös optika. Tehát akkor nekem a “aperture flex cable” kell vennem.
        Ez egy általános kábel, vagy obiként változik? pl.18-55-be ugyan az van mint a 18-85-be?
        Érdemes javítani, vagy vegyek egy használt,de még jó obit? (ugyan ilyet)
        Még egy kérdés: Ha vennék egy új obit akkor te milyet ajánlanál nekem.
        Tudom attól függ, hogy mire használnám. Átlag felhasználás lenne. Családi fotózások, kert, virágok stb. Nincs más obim hozzá.
        Én ezt néztem ki :Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
        Előre is köszönöm szépen.
        üdv: isti624

      • canonrepair says:

        Akkor sorjában.
        Azt, hogy melyik kábel halt meg, akkor tudod biztosan,, ha szétszedted. nem olyan bonyolult, de kell egy VÉKONY PH00 csavarhúzó. Ha a bajonett lejött, a többi már általában látszik.

        Ha kevés a pénzed, akkor én mindenképpen egy canon EF-S 18-55 IS optikát vennék (kb 18-20000) (egy felújított, kábelcsere utáni nekem is van eladó), meg egy 50 mm F1,8 optikát (ez utóbbit újat, 30000 ft. az 50 mm ezen a gépen kiváló pl portréhoz és kifogástalan a képe)
        Ha asok a pnzed, akkor EF-S 17-55 F2,8 IS. Ez nagyon jó, de használtan 160-180000 forint.
        Olyan optikát, aminek az átfedése több, mint 4x, nemigen vennék meg.
        Vehetsz még 17-85 IS-öt is (használtan 60000) – kicsit torzít a képe, de annak nagyobb az átfedése. Ha eltörik a szalagkábele, akkor persze szívás.

  115. Simon says:

    Just by chance: Do you have a 40d/50d mirror motor on hand where you could measure the resistance?
    I measure between 6.4 and 10 Ohm for the mirror motor (depending on the Temperature).
    The curtain motor measures 3.6Ohm.

    Regards,
    Simon

  116. Simon says:

    Some more discoveries – still no idea what goes wrong.

    I measured the position encoder signals, in the case of the described error
    i can see that the encoder is rotated further than it should.
    (i opened the sensor, everything fine)

    Watching the motor voltage i can see a waveform like
    |““`|_|`|_____ = error
    |““`|__________ = no error
    the signals going to the motor driver seem to be always like this:
    |““`|__________

    So either the motor driver ic is faulty or something strange is going on.

    Interestingly i think i located the position where heat toggles the problem:
    If i warm up the motor for the mirror the problem apears – if i cool it down with ice spray the symtoms go away.
    It could make sense that a warmer motor will move more easyly with the second strange pulse – causing the issue.

    Any hints?

    I think i will swap the motor for the curtain and the mirror to see how it goes then.
    Another option would be replacing the motor driver ic (i do want to buy a new bottom pcb).

    Regards,
    Simon

  117. bertus11 says:

    Canon EOS 40D
    Hello,
    I have a problem with a Canon 40D.
    When I switch on power I get an error message that the CF card is not formatted.
    When I go in the menu to “Formatting”, after a few seconds with a status bar
    filling to the end, it ends up with the message “cannot format the CF card”.
    I have the same problem wit a card that comes right out of a camera that stored
    foto’s on this card, so it cannot be a formatting problem.
    I looked to the pins of the slot but no pins look to be bend.
    I’m affraid that there is a hardware problem in the camera and as far as I can
    see, the CF-slot is on the main PCB.
    Does this mean that the main PCB is broken or do you have an other idea?

    Regards,
    Bert

  118. Simon says:

    Ok thanks for the info. I gained some more clues. When i heat up the left side with the digic cpu a lot after some time i get the symtoms.
    It is interesting, when the heat bug occures any button press (also changing af to m on the lens) will force the mirror to go up.
    So i do not think it is a contact/sensor problem. Maybe a bad capacitor and a voltage drop?!

    I will get some ice spray to define it further (i can not heat single parts selective enough, so i will go for a warm up and selective cooling approach ;))

    Regards,
    Simon

  119. simon says:

    Interesting concept!
    I Made a mistake, i meant the Motor for the mirror.
    How does this One work?

    Regards Simon

    • canonrepair says:

      As I know, this second motor rotates also in only one sense.
      But each eos camera has some “H” bridge driver IC-s, and if they get only one fautlty bit, they start to go strange

  120. Simon says:

    Hi!

    Do you know how the shutter mechanism works?
    Does the motor move back and forth (2 directions) or is it solved mechanically and the motor is always rotating in the same direction?

    Simon

    • canonrepair says:

      only one direction.
      the motor drives a wheel with a cam. the phase sensor tells the exact position, and the motor stops in the correct moment.
      when battery connected, the curtains are always in “armed” position, so with te tensioned spring, but exactly before moving – this is made by the internal structure of the shutter (to have a short time lapse). when presseing the button, the motor has to move only a little to engage the movement of the curtains – which in that moment are already holded by the solenoids.
      Therefore exact startpoint will be determined by the two solenoids.

  121. Simon says:

    Hi!

    Now i have more information. The owner gave me incorrect information.
    Yesterday i was finally able to reproduce the error.

    If the cam is cold, everything is fine.

    I warmed up the internals using a hair dryer – still fine.
    Then, some minutes later out of a sudden the problem appeared:
    The mirror goes up (you can see the curtain). Pressing a random (?) button makes the mirror move down and up again.
    Usually it stays at the top. Removing the Lens also lets the mirror do a noise/movement (?).

    My next take will be a seperated warming up of the single pcbs and/or maybe pcb regions (cpu etc).

    At work i develop electronics so i have the skills to try the repair on my own 😉
    I sucessfully repaired other canon stuff in the past (several ixus, lenses, 40d).

    Regards,
    Simon

  122. simon says:

    Canon eos 50d

    I have a broken 50d with the following symptom: after long use the camera shutter goes into an endless loop. have. you seen that before? any hints?

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi Simon,

      the Canon EOS cameras usually have a basic function: if You connect the battery, they try to find the zero position with the motor (even by turned off camera!). The position is given by the phase-sensor. The motor is driven by a PCB which works even without the main PCB.
      If the phase sensor, or the motor PCB is bad, or gets wrong information, the motor strats to rotate the mechanisms endless. In this case the two solenoids will get no current, so the curtains will go up and down. It can be cause also by a blown fuse (depends from the body).
      You have to disassemble the body, check the fuses, check the phase sensor, and the flex cables. If you are not used to do such things, better go to a specialist. Where do You live?

      János

  123. Makai Sándor says:

    Szia!
    Egy apró információt szeretnék tőled kérni. Van egy 550D vázam, és már többször vittem be a garanciális ideje alatt a Kamera Kft-hez, mert szerintem front fókuszos, de egyszerűen vagy képtelenek beállítani, vagy nem törödnek vele, hátha megunom, hogy 2 hétre mindig ott hagyom a vázat. Kérdésem, hogy te vállalsz-e és ha igen mennyiért egy autó fókusz beállítást. Megjegyzem, LiveView módban tökéletes a fókusz.

    • canonrepair says:

      Azóta már találkoztunk, a mérés eredménye az volt, hogy az én (jónak ismert) 50 F1,4 optikámmal gyakorlatilag tökletesen fókuszolt a gép.
      Tény viszont, hogy a fő tükör sarkait tartó kengyelnek, (és ezáltal a sarkoknak is) elég komoly játéka van már kis nyomásra is. Tapasztalatom szerint van olyan gép, ami erre a fókusz időnkénti tévesztésével reagál.
      A LiveView nyilván tökéletes képet ad – hiszen ott arra állítod az élességet, amit a CMOS lát.

  124. Farkas Szabolcs says:

    Üdvözlöm!

    Egy Canon 20d-vel használok egy Canon 400mm 5.6-os objektívet. Sajnos nem igazán sikerül tökéletes éles képet készítenem a kittel még a legnagyobb blendével jó megvilágításban sem. A gép vagy az objektív lehet a problémás? Lehetséges, hogy kalibrálni kellene az objektívet? Ez utóbbi még garanciás…

    Üdv:

    Szabolcs

    • canonrepair says:

      Kedves Szabolcs,
      persze lehet éppenséggel, hogy az optika hibás, azt mondanám, előbb ki kellene próbálni egy garantáltan jó vázon. ha csak annyi a baja, hogy front/backfókuszos, akkor azt nyugodtan okozhatja egy elállítódott autofókusz a 20d-n. Ha viszont valóban nem lehet vele éles képet készíteni,a akkor persze marad az optika ellenőriztetése. Ez utóbbi – ha még garanciális – végül is ingyen van. Szóval előbb teszt másik vázzal – célszerűen egy live-view-val működőt választanék, mert ott a képérzékelőn kialakult legjobb (legélesebb) állásban lehet exponálni. Ha az is rossz – na akkor biztosan az optika a hibás. Nem esett le? Mármint az optika.

  125. Zöldi Péter says:

    Szia 🙂
    Segítségedet kérném 🙂
    Most cseréltem egy panasonic LS 80-at egy canon 300D-re
    az objektív teljesen hibátlan 🙂 a géppel elvileg annyi gond van hogy nem müködik a kis fekete fehér kijelző felül (akivel cseréltem az donor gépnek vette de végül nem lett semmi kieszdve belőle mert átpártolt nikonékhoz) , és ha jól láttam a memóriakártya foglalatól egy darab kis pöcök kivan törve
    hazafele fotoztam vele de ugye nem tudtam állítani semmit rajta de már nem tudok vele fotozni mert csipog és villog . ez mitől van? és a fent említett dolgoknak mennyi lenne a javítása kb?:)

    Üdv: Péter

    • canonrepair says:

      írtam mailt.
      a kijelző lehet szalagkábel-hiba is.
      a CF kártya lába általában nem gond, mert általában a plusz vagy test törik ki, amiből 2-2 van – csak ne a vázban kóboroljon.

  126. Emődi Csaba says:

    Szia!

    Van egy Canon EOS 350D masinám. Egyszer a képek letöltése közben véletlen lehuztam az USB-t, és azóta amikor bekapcsolom csak villog hogy Busy. Semmire nem reagál.

    Milyen megoldást látsz a problémára?

    Üdv. Csabi.

    • canonrepair says:

      Szia,
      hát nincs túl jó hírem. Sajnos elképzelhető, hogy a főpanel halt meg benne, akkor pedig nem tudok megoldást, mert nem nagyon van donor. Egyébként meg persze szét lehet szedni, megnézni azt a néhány biztosítékot és reménykedni.
      János

      • Emődi Csaba says:

        Szia!

        Némi update. 🙂 Ha bekapcsolás folyamán nyomva tartom az expo gombot, akkor készít fényképeket, de ha elengedem megáll. Ugyanezt produkálja mindenhol máshol. Pl.: Belépek a menübe, de csak lefelé enged lépni, nem tudok semmit változtatni, vagy amikor kiveszem az akksikat, akkor első indításnál rákérdez az időre, de ott is csak lefele tudok menni. Semmi másra nem reagál. Ez is lehet biztosíték? Ha “csak” bizti akkor van DIY módszer? Esetleg ránéznél?

        Üdv. Csabi.

  127. bertus_b says:

    Hello, I have some more info about my Canon 28-135mm.
    When investigating further I discovered that a flexcable from the focus position coder(inside the USM-unit) was damaged by the wobbling inner lens construction. This was caused by loosened screws. So you think this damaged flex prevents the correct focussing and not a defective main circuit board.

    • canonrepair says:

      absolutely.
      it is not so easy to damage a main board.
      try to change the flex. if there is no flex for it, try with some thin wires – if there are only a few wires in the flex.

      • bertus_b says:

        Hello,
        I ordered a new USM motor and replaced it. The lens is working perfectly now.
        Delivery of the USM motor took several month, so it took a long time to end this thread.
        Bert

  128. bertus11 says:

    Hello, I have a question about a canon 28-135mm.
    The autofocus works just in one direction, so it looks as if the USM-motor only turns one direction.
    If I focus to a close subject manual and go to a distant subject in autofocus the focusmotor works but
    gives an oveshoot and doesn’t correct back.
    If I focus to a distant subject manual and go to a close subject in autofocus the focusmotor doesn’t seem to react.
    I replaced the USM-motor by an USM-motor of a Canon 17-85 (looks quite similar) but I got the same results. I think the electonic board is defective. What do you think?

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi,
      the USM motor itself does not know, how much to go in a direction. It always should be there a position sensor. The 17-85 has 2 pieces. One is for absolut position – a flatcable with coding sectors and a comb, which reads the position (on 5 bits for ex.). This is a bad resolution (32 positions) – but gives the absolut focusing position. The other one is a relative sensor, an optical encoder, which gives very precisely the movement – but only steps (and probably the direction). Both of them could be damaged, and can cause a malfunction of the focusing.
      The encoder You can only wipe with some alcohol, the other one You can wipe too, and I had a case, when the solution was increasing the pressing force of the comb (only slightly!)

      • bertus11 says:

        Hello,
        I ordered a new USM focus motor and hope that this will fix the problem.
        I will keep you informed.
        Thanks,
        Bert

      • canonrepair says:

        OK, be careful by the assembling.

      • bertus_b says:

        Hello,
        I have a problem with 2 lenses of the type 17-85mm where I think the problem has to do with the USM motor. Both lenses had problems with the diaphragm. After the diaphragms where replaced the lenses seem to work again, but… one of the lenses starts hunting when focussing on a close subject (e.a. 60cm). The other lens starts hunting when focussing on a subject at definite distance. I thought it could be a problem with the position coding of the USM motor. What do you think how I can solve this problems.
        Bert

      • canonrepair says:

        the USM motor has always two position sensors: on absolute sensor, which is a brush on a flex cable with some lanes, and an incremental optical sensor. Both of them can be damaged or can have a bad relative position. Try to fix this.

        Ruzsa Janos

      • canonrepair says:

        check the position and contact of the brush check the optical ring to be clean

        Ruzsa Janos

  129. szule says:

    Kedves János,
    Adott egy 30D, ami aksi behelyezéskor azt produkálja, hogy a print/share gomb kéken világít, és semmi más életjelet nem ad. Az előző tulaj szerint 99-es hibával kezdődött a dolog, de mire nálam kötött ki a gép, már csak a kék fény világított. Külömböző fórumokon azt az infót találtam, hogy a DC board cseréjével megoldódik a dolog. Feltételezem, hogy itt nem csak a biztosítékkal van gond. Van-e rá esély, hogy javítható a DC áramkör?
    Üdv,
    Nagy M. Zoltán

  130. tiszafoto says:

    Kedves János!

    Elestem a gépemen egy Canon Speedlite EX II vakuval. A vaku a földhöz verődve szabályosan letört a gépről. A törés maga a műanyag vázat érinti a vaku alsó részén, a talp fölött. Minden más érintetlennek tűnik, a vaku működik. Kérdésem, hogy a műanyag váz cserélhető-e egyáltalán, vagy valamilyen módon rendbe lehet-e hozni. Kár lenne érte…
    Fényképet is tudok küldeni (de nem találtam e-mailcímet az oldalon).

    Üdv
    Szabó Tibor

  131. Djordje Markovic says:

    Good Morning,

    I have a question about Canon EF-D 17-85 USM IS ultrasonic lense.

    Well I had a problem with blocked zoom, and i solved it (zoom guide screw to srew again) and since i mounted a objectif, my focus ring is tourning on empty, it does not sharp , and AF has a problems to focus, on 17mm it can focus, on more, it going to one side to other (trying to focus, but can not focus,) so do you have idea why focus ring is not focusing ? and how i can try to repair this ?

    best regards

    Djordje

  132. jakabistvan says:

    Szia!

    EOS 50D-m van, és az utóbbi időben tűnt fel, hogy a fókuszpontok mintha elmozdultak volna a vízszinteshez/függőlegeshez képest. Nem feltűnő, inkább csak zavaró.
    Szerintem nem volt ilyen eddig, de lehet, hogy csak nem vettem észre.
    A mattüveget nem piszkáltam, illetve a gép sem esett még le soha, nem kapott ütést…
    Lehet, hogy elmászott a mattüveg feletti (fókuszpontokat tartalmazó) üveg?

    Válaszod előre is köszönöm.

    • canonrepair says:

      szia,
      tanácstalan vagyok, nem tdom, mi rögzíti az az üveglemezt, sőt azt sem, hogy az 50d-ben biztosan másik üvegen vannak, vagy a mattüvegen.
      Ha más következménye nincs, én a saját gépemen nem piszkálnám, mert egy sima ki-beszereléstől is úgy megsérülhet bármelyik üveg, hogy akkor viszont nagyon ideges leszel.
      Ha tovább romlik, akkor persze az más.
      Megnézem addig, hogy van rögzítve.

      üdv. János

  133. jakabistvan says:

    Szia!

    EOS 50D-m van, és az utóbbi időben tűnt fel, hogy a fókuszpontok mintha elmozdultak volna a vízszinteshez/függőlegeshez képest (talán 1-2 fokot). Nem feltűnő, inkább csak zavaró.
    Szerintem nem volt ilyen eddig, de lehet, hogy csak nem vettem észre.
    A mattüveget nem piszkáltam, illetve a gép sem esett még le soha, nem kapott ütést…
    Lehet, hogy elmászott a mattüveg feletti (fókuszpontokat tartalmazó) üveg?

    Válaszod előre is köszönöm.

  134. Kedves János,

    Érdeklődnék, hogy tudsz e olyan helyet ahonnan be lehet szerezni egy gumikeret tartót egy 450d keresőjéhez. A gumikeret megvan, csak az a műanyagadapter hiányzik, amit a kereső ablakára kell rácsúsztatni/rárakni, és arra menne a gumi. Újonnan, bontottan, gyermekéletek árán, akárhonnan.

    Millió köszönet.
    Géza

    • canonrepair says:

      Hát, az egyszerűség kedvéért a boltból?
      Egyébként a kínaiaktól lehet rendelni egészen olcsón, olyan 600 ft azt hiszem, az eredeti Canon meg úgy 1700 lehet.
      Valamilyen gépre való nekem is van szerintem, ha nem ragaszkodsz a 450d-hez valóhoz, akkor megnézhetem.
      írj mailt hogy mire jutottál

  135. Gábor says:

    Tisztelt János,

    Vásároltam egy EOS 350D-t a gyári kitobjektívével együtt. Sajnos már a megvásárlás után vettem észre hogy valami zörög a gépben.
    CF kártya foglalatába belenéztem, ép és egyenes minden láb.
    Camera Kft szerint 22.348 expo van a gépben, ennek ellenére mivel sajnos fotóiskolai gép volt látszik hogy megviselte az élet.
    Szeretném kipucoltatni, kipofoztatni hogy utána megbízhatóan tegye a dolgát nálam.
    Ez az első DSLR gépem, hobbi használat a cél szóval nem fogok hamarjában beletenni még 60e expót 🙂
    Ha tudna segíteni annak nagyon örülnék.
    Előre is köszönöm.

    • canonrepair says:

      Kedves Gábor,
      ha a gépben BÁRMI zörög, akkor AZONNAL vegye ki az akkut, ha lehet, akkor a kis elemet is, majd a gépet ne nagyon mozgassa. A gépet szét kell szedni. Többször találtam már gépben egyszerűen “magától” elszabadult csavart, sőt, csavarokat.
      Ha az a valami rossz helyre kerül, zárlatot okoz, a vaku kondenzátorán akkorát, hogy csak úgy csattan…
      Válaszoltam a mailre is, amit küldött.

      János

  136. Vilius says:

    Hello there,

    A very interesting blog you have here. I’ve recently received a canon 1000d to repair (I don’t repair cameras or anything else, it’s something like a hobby/challenge to me, so I do have at least some experience in electronics). It has a very unusual problem, that sounds somewhat similar to the 300d problem where someone tried to put external power supply.

    The problem is – camera had mirror broken, someone replaced it, and while replacing managed to screw something else up, and then it ended up given to me. it also had a loose screw inside, which most likely shorted something when I was being shown the problem, as err99 came up upon the power up, shutter did some random shots and it powered off. that was the only time I saw the camera LCD to function, any attempts to turn on camera now simply do nothing.

    Now, the weird bit is, when the battery is inserted and the lid is closed, the camera repeats few shots and shows no any other signs of life, until the trigger for closing/opening lid is activated, what results in some more shots.

    Inside, the camera did have a loose screw, that did not seem to come from anywhere, being rather large, it had some wires with insulation broken etc, but there was no other damage I could see. I did some troubleshooting with how exactly the problem with shutter works, and it is rather bizzare.

    1) Camera does not do a single shot when battery is triggered. It spins the motor for what seems a random amount of time, which results in camera ending in a resting position with either mirror up and shutter open, mirror up and shutter closed, mirror down or sometimes mirror just halfway up.

    2)This is the only sign of life on camera, and can be reproduced when the battery “close lid button/pin” (for lack of better words) is triggered, or when a lens is mounted/dismounted.

    3) Camera repeats spinning the motor when triggered even with all the connections and components removed, apart from those between motor, the power board (one which battery and motor connect to), the main board and the SD card PCB that also holds the battery lid pin that triggers the movement.

    Do you think it’s still possible to repair the camera, and any ideas on what could be the problem?

    Regards,
    Vilius

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi,
      the problem is, that normally the motor spinning is done by the motor pcb always, when the phase sensor is in the “wrong” position. The same happenes even when the phase sensor is not connected at all….
      If tha motor pcb will not find the right position, probably has a timer, which disconnects the spinning.
      I personnally don’t know the 1000d.
      But never give up.
      Did You found all the fuses? They can also be burned out.
      Do You have unfortunatelly some damaged 40d for sale? I would be very happy to find one body.

      • Vilius says:

        Sadly, I do not have a 40d anywhere in my possession, but I will ask around my friends – with quite a few photographers, some might have it. I’d suggest ebay as a source to find something broken, although it usually is hard to verify how the camera broke and what condition it is (if you have problems with shipping, you could let me know and I would sort something out, as I live in UK). I do have a spare mirror box unit without mirror from 1000d (got it together with the camera when someone tried to replace it. I took out the glass shards out of shutter curtains and reassembled the gears, it seems to be working fine). It’s missing the mirrors, and the guy managed to put too long screws into the motor somehow, so that doesn’t work either, but otherwise it should be a good source for spare parts. I don’t plan on becoming a professional camera repair man, so I would not mind giving it to someone who would have more use of it.

        As for the fuses, It seems 1000d has placed them differently than 300/350/400d’s. I do have some suspections, I’ll check on all of them during the weekend when I have more free time, I did find some information about that (fuses blowing) being a usual problem.

        As for the phase sensor (as I said, i’m pretty newbie in anything camera like electronics, although simply dismantling one and putting it back together gave quite a bit of insight), I’m not entirely sure where it is – Is there any chance you might know where I could get a 1000d service manual? I’ve browsed internet for hours, and could not find one for 1000d, although did find a lot of information for the 300-450d’s.

  137. Bery says:

    Szia,
    az EF 75-300 USM -be használt AF-Motort lehet valahol szerezni ? vagy netán javitani ? találtam az Ebay-en a teljes AF-Drive-ot de tulajdonképp csak a motor kellene belöle.

    • canonrepair says:

      ilyen még soha nem szedtem szét, de ha jól tudom, ebben mikro-USM motor van, ami gondolom több más optikában is előfordul.
      Nem tudom, lehet-e javítani, előbb szét kellene szedni. nem lehet egy bonyolult szerkezet, a Nikon hasonló kis mikromotorja pl nem néz ki annak. Az biztos, hogy ezek kényesek arra, hogy ne legyen rajtuk zsír, meg jól legyen beállítva az előfeszítés.

  138. Szia,
    adott egy EOS 7D es egy EF 100-400,
    mikor szetszedtem oket a 7D egyik kontakt laba megserult(utolag beragadt) az utolso a felso harombol, mivel a 100-400-ba a megvezeto muanyag el volt csuszva.
    Kerdesem az lenne hogy ha leveszem a kontaktokat tarto muanyag lapot egyszeruen vissza tudom nyomni hatulrol? Mi van mogotte? Elore is koszonom valaszod, Aba

    • canonrepair says:

      általában egy kis spirálrugó van mögötte, vissza kell meniie
      ha nagyon sérült valami, akkor legrosszabb esetben másik vázból pótolhatod.

      • Koszi a tippet, visszaugrott a helyere, viszont csak nem komunikall az obikkal, ugy latom egy pirosz szal volt mogotte ami leszakadt amikor kimozditottam a tuskek muanyagjat 😦
        A tuskeket tarto muanyag lapot hogy tudom kivenni? Koszi,
        Aba

      • canonrepair says:

        hát ha szerencséd van, akkor csak a bajonettet kell levenned, amit 4 csavar tart.
        ha nincs szerencséd, akkor a váz elülső lemezét is.

  139. balázs says:

    Kedves János! Nagy telitalálat ez a blog! Sok sikert hozzá! Remélem hamarosan milliomos leszel a híredtésekből :). Számomra tökéletes szórakozás ez az oldal!!! Bá bevallom hogy a hibás obimat inkább bevittem a szervízbe, nem mertem magam cserélni a szalagkábelt 🙂

  140. Sanyi says:

    Szia

    Valamiért nem jelent meg a kérdésem, ezért leírom még egyszer. Szóval kaptam egy havertól egy 300d-t, csak van egy kis probléma vele. A kijelző felső része nem jelenik meg teljesen (ahol iso-t állítasz), vagyis csak részben. Kis pálcikák vannak. De ha változtatom mondjuk a záridőt ott is változnak a dolgok. A másik, hogy pár gomb nem megy, köztük a menü se, így elég sok mindent nem tudok állítani.
    Elvittem szervizbe, ahol azt mondták, hogy elszakadt az LCD szalagkábele, és ők nem javítják meg. Néztem új LCD-t, de majdnem annyi mint a gép.
    Tudsz e esetleg segíteni? Vagy ajánlani valakit, aki meg tudná csinálni?

    Köszi
    Sanyi

  141. Alfredo says:

    Hi, i have a problem with my eos 40d dslr, its showing error 99 and the shutter wouldnt open when the shutter button is pressed the power is gone and the mirror stays up, so i decide to replace it with a new shutter the problem is still there, when pressed the shutter button, the mirror stays up and the power it gone so i have the take the battery off and insert it again, it wont take pictures as well coz the shutter wont open either, can it be the shutter motor problem?

    • canonrepair says:

      Hi,
      the 40d, as You know has 2 motors.
      At first, You have to check if there is a mechanical problem. For this take off the front cover of the body, and try to move the main mirror motor, then the shutter motor. You can do this with a small screwdriver, through the gears.
      Both motors can be rotated only in one direction, and they are acting periodically. In normal use, they are stopped by some phasing contacts.
      They must move the mirror and the shutter without any big resistence.
      If You see even here a problem with the moving of the mirror, it could be something in the mechanism (there are a lot of levers and springs on the outer side of the mirror box.)
      The higher resistence could cause on overcurrent, and then a shot-down.
      Are You shure, that the shutter is mounted in the right position, I mean, the shutters pin is in the moving fork?

      Another problem could be, if the motors are not phased one to the other.. This should be done automaically, after closing the battery door – even when the body is not on (!). When this is not working, rotate the motors in the right starting position by hand.

  142. Bencze Zoltan says:

    Szia!

    A segítségedet szeretném kérni. Adott egy 5D (Mark I). Ehhez van egy photix tipusú markolat. És sajnos a markolat gumiborítása elengedte magát. A gumiboritás visszarakásában szeretném a segítségedet kérni.

    A másik problémám a hátsó lcd kijelző műanyag boritása. Karcos itt ott és ez engem nagyon zavar. esetlegesen tudsz e ilyet szerezni és a felrakásában segíteni?

    Ezekhez a dolgokhoz szeretnék árajánlatot kérni.

    Üdv:
    BZ

  143. Bobo says:

    Szia! Van egy EOS 400d kamerám, és egyik pillanatról a másikra csak koromfekete képeket csinál. Mi lehet az oka? Köszi! Gábor

    • canonrepair says:

      Kedves Gábor,

      ez így azért túl általános…

      MINDIG fekete képeket készít?!?!?
      Normál fénynél meg belső vakunál is?

      Volna egy tesztlehetőség:
      vedd ki az optikát, tedd a gépet M módra, azon belül 2 másodpercre, aztán nézzél bele a tüköraknába és exponálj.
      a tükörnek föl kell csapódnia, majd látnod kell a zöldes fényben játszó képérzékelőt, utána a tükör visszaesik
      Utána egy ujjaddal finoman emeld meg a tükröt, majd exponálj. Ekkor előbb látod a redőnyt, majd redőny nyit, utána látszik a képérzékelő, aztán redőny zár.

      Egy lehetőség az lenne, hogy leszakadt az egyik redőny, mert azt az elektronika valóban nem érzékelné. Ilyennel még nem találkoztam, de hát ki tudja.
      A másik az, hogy pl a tükör tengelye törött el, azt sem érzékeli az elektronika. Ilyet már láttam, akkor viszont valami elmosódott fényfoltok mégiscsak lennének.

      Ha megvagy, írd meg, mi történt.

      János

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